New: Barra, Writer's Block
Petite Sirah is the result of a cross of Syrah and the little known and the obscure French variety Peloursin. Originally propagated in the Rhône toward the end of the 19th Century, it does not grow well there because its clusters are very tight and do not permit air to circulate between the berries. Thus, when it rains on the fruit, it does not dry before mould affects it and in France, unlike in California, it rains frequently during the growing season.
Petite was planted early in California where several different varieties were often mislabeled as Petite Sirah and were sometimes colloquially called Petasera. It was not until the late 1990s that DNA fingerprinting identified true Petite and separated it from the others including Syrah which had often been misidentified as Petite Sirah. Petite is often used as a blending grape to add weight and power to Zinfandel and, perhaps color to the grapes with which it is blended. Perhaps the best example of the former use is by Paul Draper of Ridge Vineyards. However, Petite Sirah can make an excellent wine on its own and the best examples are especially long lived. Petite Sirah is also grown in Israel, Mexico, Argentina, and Brazil.
Currently, Petite Sirah is made in a wide range of styles from rustic to elegant. It is also produced with widely varying alcohol levels as can be seen from those reviewed below that have alcohol levels from 12.5% to 15.7%. This permits the individual consumer a great opportunity to explore and decide what approach or approaches are most satisfying or perhaps, there is more than one style enjoyed depending upon whether the wine is to be served alone or with food. You can learn more about Petite and its producers by going to: www.psiloveyou.org.
The following notes on a few Petites Sirah are in alphabetical order by winery. Please check back for additional entries. They will be noted at the top.
Artezin Wines
The 2008 Petite Sirah, [Ukiah Valley], Mendocino County, $25, 13.9% alc., 433 cases, is a blend of 82% Petite Sirah, 13% Zinfandel, and 5% Charbono. Aged in French oak, it opens with sweet aromas of well integrated vanilla smoky oak, blackberry jam, black raspberry, and boysenberry. Sweet edged flavors of the same with the fruit before the oak are laced with fine, tooth coating tannin and finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced and integrated.
Artezin is one of the labels of Hess Collection and if you can’t find the Artezin wines or any of the others from Hess, contact the winery: www.hesscollection.com.
Barra of Mendocino
The 2007 Petite Sirah, Mendocino, $22, 390 cases, 13.5% alc., is from estate vines planted in the early 1960s. The final blend contains 4% Zinfandel and the wine was matured in French oak, 20% new. A restrained bouquet of black cherry, smoke, leather, raspberry, and plum introduces flavors of cherry, raspberry, cranberry, plum, and smoke laced with fine tannin and good acidity. Everything carries through the medium-broad, medium-long finish. Made with organic grapes, this is an almost elegant, well balanced, structured, and integrated Petite that will complement food. Good.
Bogle Vineyards
The 2009 Petite Sirah, [Clarksburg & Lodi], California, $11, 3.5% alc., has an inviting, restrained nose of blackberry, leather, dried cranberry, briar, and smoke before flavors of blackberry, cherry, unsweetened chocolate, leather, sweet cranberry, oak, and smoke laced with nice acidity and fine tannin. Everything carries through the long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it should be popular. Tasty. BEST BUY.
Bogle wines are always reliable and widely available. But if you can’t find them, contact the winery: www.boglewinery.com.
Cecchetti Wine Company
Cecchetti releases wines under three labels: Line 39, redtree, and Backhouse, and a total of sixteen wines. Here are notes on four of them. For additional information on Cecchetti, see its website: www.cecchettiwineco.com.
The 2010 redtree Petite Sirah, California, $8, 12.5% alc., has light aromas of blackberry, unsweetened chocolate, and red and black cherry. Light bodied, fresh flavors of the same plus underlying wood and a hint of fizz finish long, narrow at the front and broad at the back. Straight forward and well put together.
In contrast, the 2010 Line 39 Petite Sirah, [Lake County], North Coast, $10, 13.5% alc., opens with bright accented and intense dark cherry and blackberry. The same repeat as flavors laced with light, fine tannin and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish that becomes slightly sweet. It will be popular.
Clayhouse Wines
The 2008 Petite Sirah, Show Pony, Red Cedar Vineyard, Estate, Paso Robles, $40, 14.2% alc., 660 cases, opens initially with an almost floral note with raspberry, cherry, blackberry, cranberry, and tar notes. Light, fresh, juicy flavors of the same with a sweet accent, light, fine tannin, and moderate acidity finish medium-broad and medium-long with a brief hit of pepper at the front. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it is an especially nice complement to food. Very Tasty to Good.
Clayhouse also makes a number of other wines in three different series. If you can’t find them locally, contact the winery: www.clayhousewines.com.
David Fulton Winery & Vineyards
David Fulton established the family vineyards in St. Helena in 1860 and began construction of the town’s first stone wine cellar in 1861. He served as the town’s blacksmith and, among other accomplishments, he developed and patented the One-Horse Plow which allowed vineyard rows to be planted closer together which meant more production per acre. Eventually, he sold his blacksmith and saddler business and purchased land for a vineyard and winery. Twenty acres of that property was planted to vines which were dry farmed. The same vineyards are still the source for the David Fulton wines. The vines are head trained and dry farmed and the vineyard is now the oldest continuously owned and operated family vineyard in Napa County.
If you can’t find the David Fulton wines, contact the winery: www.davidfultonwinery.com.
The 2008 Petite Sirah, Old Vines, Estate, Napa Valley, $45, 14.9% alc., 359 cases, was aged in French oak, 70% new, for thirty months. A bouquet of earth, blackberry, boysenberry, red currant, and a hint of mint introduces round, fairly bright flavors of the same plus spice that gradually spreads over the tongue and all shot through with supple tannin and good acidity. It finishes long and broad. This is a lean, firmly structured Petite that is elegant rather than big. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will pair well with food. Give it a few more years in the bottle to develop and gain in weight and depth and it will be even better. Good to Very Good.
The 2008 Our Sweet Petite, Estate, Napa Valley, $40/375 ml., 21.0% alc., 50 cases, had brandy added to achieve a sweet dessert wine. A very sweet, almost cooked nose of blackberry, dark cherry and steamed peas introduces very sweet blackberry, black cherry, spice, and sweet rhubarb flavors that finish medium-broad and medium long. Very sweet but with enough acidity to balance, it is not at all cloying. Good.
Emilio Guglielmo Winery
The 2008 Petite Sirah, Estate, Santa Clara Valley, $25, 13.2% alc., 405 cases, has lifted aromas of raspberry, cherry, red currant, allspice, and smoky oak. Almost fresh flavors of the same are juicy, a bit tart, and fairly light bodied and shot through with fine tannin and moderate acidity. The long finish is a bit narrow with lingering smoky oak at the center. This is a well balanced, structured, and integrated Petite that will complement food. Tasty.
Guglielmo is a long time Santa Clara Valley producer of a wide range of wines. If you can’t find them locally, contact the winery: www.guglomielmowinery.com.
Field Stone Winery & Vineyard
This long established winery harvested its first grapes in 1977. It quickly established a reputation for well crafted wines and it has continued to produce wines well worth seeking out. Most are small quantity production and you may not find them locally. If you can’t, contact the winery, it will ship: www.fieldstonewinery.com. Notes on just three of its approximately one dozen current releases follow.
The 2010 Rosé of Petite Sirah, Heritage Block, Estate, Sonoma County, $18, 13.5 % alc., is only available directly from the winery. A bigger, more intense, darker colored wine than most Rosés, it is bright ruby in color with a nose of raspberry hard candy before bright, lively flavors of raspberry, cherry, and a touch of spice that finish long and medium-broad. It will serve well to accompany many foods where you may want with more weight that most whites but something lighter than a red. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good.
Fieldstone has long been known especially for the quality of its Petite Sirah and the 2008 Petite Sirah, Staten Family Reserve, Sonoma County, $35, 15.5% alc., 636 cases, continues that trend. A sweet nose of chocolate syrup, coffee, and blackberry jam precedes big, round flavors dominated by blackberry jam with hints of chocolate and coffee plus some spice and laced with fine, tooth coating tannin and moderate acidity. The finish is long and broadens at the back. Heavily extracted and well put together with plenty of fruit to hide the alcohol and keep the wine from being hot.
Lava Cap Winery
The 2009 Petite Sirah, Granite Hill Reserve, Estate, $30, 14.8% alc., 447 cases, has a restrained nose of blackberry, black raspberry, cherry, and wet leather. Smooth, round, almost softly textured flavors of the same fruit plus pepper, very fine, dry tannin, and modest acidity carry through the medium-broad, medium-long, fairly persistent finish with underlying sweetness. Well put together. Tasty.
Lava Cap has a number of special events throughout the year and, if you are in the Sierra Foothills, is worth a visit. If you can’t find the wines, contact the winery; it will ship: www.lavacap.com.
Mounts Family Winery
The Mounts family is a long time grape grower in the Dry Creek Valley that in recent years has begun to make wines under its own label rather than selling fruit to others. They also make Malbec, Grenache, Viognier, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel. If you can’t find the wines, contact the winery: www.mountswinery.com.
The 2008 Petite Sirah, Estate, Dry Creek Valley, $32, 15.5% alc., 525 cases, was aged in American and French oak and opens with dark, deep, almost syrup-like aromas of dark cherry, blackberry, black raspberry, and smoke that are lifted by the alcohol. The same fruit continues as flavors with a sweet note and firm, underlying smoky oak before a medium-long finish that broadens at the back. Lighter bodied than might be expected from the weight indicated by the nose, the wine is well put together.
The fruit for the 2007 Petasera, Reserve Petite Sirah, Estate, Dry Creek Valley, $65, 15.5% alc., 110 cases, came from an older block in the estate vineyards. It spent about thirty-two months in French and American oak and was bottled unfined and unfiltered. A bouquet of nicely sweet dark fruit compote with a touch of smoky oak introduces big, rich, smooth, mouth filling flavors of the same laced with very fine tannin and moderate acidity. Everything carries through the long, medium-broad finish that adds persistent pepper at the sides. The alcohol is well covered by the fruit and if you like a big, rich Petite, this is a particularly nice choice. Good.
Oak Grove Reserve Wines
The 2010 Petite Sirah, Reserve, [San Mateo], $8, 13.6% alc., has ripe, forward, blackberry, blueberry, cherry, raspberry, and smoky oak on the nose. The same repeat as flavors with a touch of quickly fading pepper at the sides and accented with fine tannin and soft acidity before a medium-long finish that broadens at the back. Well put together, it will be popular. BEST BUY.
Oak grove makes nine different wines. If you can’t find them or want to know more, contact the winery: www.oakgrovewines.com.
Parducci
The 2008 Petite Sirah, Mendocino County, $11, 13.8% alc., was aged for thirty months in a combination of seasoned oak barrels and upright redwood tanks. The final blend contains 13% Syrah. Appealing aromas of violet, raspberry, cherry, spice, and caramel introduce bright, sweet accented flavors of the same with the caramel becoming burnt sugar and everything accented with fine tannin and moderate acidity. The long finish broadens at the back. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty. BEST BUY.
You should be able to find most of the Parducci wines locally, but if you can’t, contact the winery: www.parducci.com.
Robert Biale Vineyards
Biale produces a large number of vineyard designated wines: mainly Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, and Syrah along with some Sangiovese, red blends, and a Sauvignon Blanc. Notes on two of the current releases follow. If you can’t find the Biale wines locally or wish to learn about its other releases, go to the website. The winery will ship: www.robertvialevineyards.com
The 2009 Royal Punishers Petite Sirah, Napa Valley, $39, 15.7% alc., 325 cases, was aged in Burgundian oak, 20% new, for fourteen months. Aromas of black cherry, blackberry syrup, and smoky oak introduce flavors that are lighter bodied than might be expected from the nose but have good presence and are laced with fine tannin. The finish is medium-long and somewhat narrow.
Silkwood Wines
Silkwood is a small producer. It has vineyards in Stanislaus County which are the source for all its fruit, except Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernet comes from Lodi. If you can’t find its wines locally, contact the winery: www.silkwoodwines.com.
The 2007 Petite Sirah, Stanislaus County, $39, 14.3% alc., 247 cases, was aged in neutral French oak barrels with new French oak innerstaves for 29 months. A bouquet of coffee, earth, a green note, and sweet fruit: black raspberry, chocolate, cherry, and floral flows onto the palate with the fruit in the center and spice at the sides and a strip down the center. The broad, medium-long finish shows very persistent mocha at the end. This is a big, fruit bomb of a Petite with a weighty, almost thick texture, soft acidity, and only a touch of tannin. If this is a style you like, make a special effort to find this wine. Good.
Victor Hugo Winery
Victor Hugo is a small (two person) winery that makes well crafted wines. When you come across them, if haven’t had a chance to try them take the opportunity. If you can’t find them, contact the winery: email: sales@victorhugowinery.com or telephone 805.434.1128.
The 2008 Petite Sirah, Paso Robles, $22, 13.9% alc., 420 cases, spent twenty-five months in American oak and opens with chocolate, smoky oak, and dark fruit compote aromas. Juicy and bright flavors dominated by raspberry and cherry that are almost hard candy like finish long and medium-broad. Well put together. It will be popular.
Vina Robles
Vina Robles makes well crafted wines mostly from estate vineyards in Paso Robles. They are well worth looking for but, if you can’t find them, contact the winery: www.vinarobles.com.
The 2009 Petite Sirah, Estate, Paso Robles, $26, alc. 15.0%, is a blend of 78% Petite Sirah from four different vineyards and 22% Syrah from a fifth vineyard. It was aged in French oak for sixteen months and shows cocoa, smoke, oak, blackberry, blueberry, and raspberry jam on the nose. Mouth filling, almost juicy, flavors of the same are laced with fine tannin and nice acidity before a long finish that is broad at the back. Well integrated, balanced, and structured. Tasty.
Writer’s Block (by Steele Wines)
The 2009 Petite Sirah, [Clay Shannon Vineyards], Lake County, $15, 13.5% alc., was aged in French and Hungarian oak for eight months and the final blend contains small amounts of Zinfandel, Syrah, and Merlot. Aromas of chocolate, blackberry, black cherry, currant, blueberry, and smoke lead to fresh, juicy flavors of the same plus pepper accented with nice acidity and tooth coating tannin before a long, medium-broad finish. A well put together, lighter style Petite that will go with fatty foods now where the tannin will cut the fat and the fat will moderate the tannin or give it another year in the bottle and it will pair well with many foods. Good.
Great story and line-up, Harold. I especially like how you leave a final, encapsulating comment at the end of each wine reviewed. Love live Petite!
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