Harold Baer Wine http://haroldbaerwine.com Mon, 29 Apr 2013 21:19:57 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 New Notes: April 2013 http://haroldbaerwine.com/2013/04/new-notes-april-2013/ http://haroldbaerwine.com/2013/04/new-notes-april-2013/#comments Mon, 29 Apr 2013 21:19:57 +0000 harold http://haroldbaerwine.com/?p=764 Continue reading →]]> The following notes are arranged for those within the United States by state and then subdivisions and winery within the state. For foreign wineries by country. Website addresses are given when available. This may be important if you cannot locate a particular wine locally because most wineries will be happy to ship you their wines if you contact them. Also, not every wine produced or in current release by any of the wineries covered here is reviewed in these notes and the websites often include more information on the wines than you will find here. Please remember that if you have questions you may contact us by email or telephone and we will try to answer them.

 

SONOMA COUNTY

 

Dry Creek Vineyard

 
The 2010 Chardonnay, Foggy Oaks, Russian River Valley, $20, 13.5% alc., was barrel fermented, 85% completed malolactic fermentation, and all was matured for ten months in French and Hungarian oak, 45% new. Nice aromas of pear, apple, carambola, lemon peel, melon, and mineral introduce flavors of lemon, toasty oak, green apple, pineapple, and pear laced with nice acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. The wine is fresh with nice body and presence. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
 
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley, $25, 13.5% alc., is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and 3% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot. It spent twenty months in French, American, and Hungarian oak, 30% new. Inviting aromas of cherry, blackberry, raspberry, currant, cedar, cigar tobacco, and hints of vanilla and leather repeat as round flavors with juicy notes, fine tannin, and good acidity. Everything carries through the medium-broad, medium-long finish. There is lots happening and the wine will be even better with another three years in the bottle. Well integrated, structured, and balanced. Good.
 
The 2009 The Mariner, Dry Creek Valley, $40, 14.5% alc., is 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 10% Malbec, and 5% each of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Matured in French oak, 46% new, for twenty-four months, it is nicely ripe with has inviting aromas of cassis, blackberry, black cherry, dark roast coffee, and a touch of vanilla smoky oak. Round, smooth, mouth filling flavors of the same plus spice at the sides, good acidity, and plenty of tannin finish long and medium-broad. It needs at least another five years in the bottle to develop, open, and begin to show at its best. Good.
 
The 2010 Heritage Zinfandel, Sonoma County, $19, 13.5% alc., contains 12% Petite Sirah and was aged for fourteen months in French, American, and Hungarian oak, 15% new. Soft aromas of black raspberry, pepper, cherry, blackberry, blueberry, and hints of spice, earth, and mineral repeat as fairly light bodied flavors plus pepper, light tannin, and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, somewhat truncated finish. The fairly young vines from which the fruit for this wine comes yield a good, everyday Zin’ to pair with lighter foods.
 
www.drycreekvineyard.com
 
 

Rodney Strong Vineyards

 
 
Sixty percent of the 2011 Chardonnay, Sonoma County, $15, 13.5% alc., was barrel fermented and aged in American and French oak for eight months; the balance was made in stainless steel and 60% of the total wine completed malolactic fermentation. A nose of oak over apple and lemon introduces flavors of lemon, apple, mango, brown spice, and toast infused with oak and nice acidity before a long finish that broadens at the back. A well put together, oaky style Chard’.
 
The 2011 Pinot Noir, Estate, Russian River Valley, $25, 14.5% alc., was matured for nine month in French oak. Attractive aromas of earth, herb, floral, cherry, smoke, cranberry, and licorice repeat as fairly bright flavors accented with light tannin and nice acidity. The medium-broad medium-long finish shows persistent licorice. Unusual and well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty.
 
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, $18, 13.5% alc., spent eighteen months in French and American oak. Lifted aromas of cranberry, rhubarb, cherry, raspberry, and light oak introduce fresh flavors of the same plus a hint of cassis laced with fine tannin and moderate acidity before a long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated it will benefit from another year in the bottle to develop.
 
The 2010 Symmetry, Red Meritage, Alexander Valley, $55, 15.5% alc., is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Franc, 2% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. Aged in French oak for twenty-one months, it has a lifted nose of raspberry, cherry, rhubarb, cranberry, blackberry, apricot, vanilla, and light oak. Fresh flavors of the same fruit (but no apricot) plus some spice and chocolate and accented with light, fine tannin and moderate acidity, it finishes broad and medium-long. Well put together. Good to Very Good
 
www.rodneystrong.com
 
 

Ravenswood

 
 
The 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel, [95% Lodi, 5% Mendocino], Lodi, $14, 14.9% alc., contains 23% Petite Sirah. Fermented with wild yeast it shows bramble, earth, dark cherry, currant, raspberry, clove, smoke, and a chocolate note on the nose. Broad, bright edged flavors of the same are laced with light tannin and moderate acidity before a broad, long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated but without much intensity it can serve nicely for everyday drinking.
 
Quite different is the 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel, Napa Valley, $16, 14.5% alc. A blend of 76% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Sirah, and 1% Carignane, it was aged in French oak, 30% new, for 14 months, and has an inviting nose of smoke, leather, raspberry, cherry, vanilla, blackberry, brown spice, cocoa, and a hint of caramel. Restrained flavors of the same with the cocoa now dark chocolate, are accented with nice acidity and light, fine tannin before a broad, long finish. Well integrated, structured, and balanced. Good.
 
www.ravenswoodwinery.com
 
 
 

Kendall-Jackson

 
The 2011 Chardonnay, Avant, [54% Mendocino, 31% Santa Barbara, 11% Monterey, and 4% Sonoma counties], California, $15, 13.5% alc., was fermented and aged in a combination of neutral oak and stainless steel. A soft nose of lemon, apple, pear, creamy oak, and wild flowers introduces round, mouth filling, juicy fresh flavors of the same before a medium-broad, medium-long finish with lingering sweet lemon and apple. Popularly styled and well put together.
 
The 2011 Chardonnay, Vintner’s Reserve, [59% Monterey, 30% Santa Barbara, 6% Mendocino, and 5% Sonoma counties], California, $15, 13.5% alc., was fermented and aged sur lie  with bâtonnage in French and American oak. Light aromas of lemon, apple, and a hint of spice repeat as light bodied flavors with a touch of sweetness and good acidity. It finishes on the back half of the palate. Straight forward and well put together.
 
www.kj.com
 
 
 

Cline Cellars

 
The 2012 Pinot Gris, Cool Climate, Sonoma Coast, $14, 14.5% alc., saw no oak and opens soft with grapefruit, lemon, and touches of lemon peel and floral. Big, mouth filling flavors of the same are shot through with good acidity before a long, medium-broad finish that adds spice at the sides. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good.
 
The 2012 Mourvèdre Rosé, Contra Costa County, $12, 13% alc., has a bright nose of strawberry, black raspberry, cherry, and a note of earth. The palate is almost tart and adds some plum and nice acidity before a broad, medium-long finish. There is a slight bitter note but it will disappear when you pair the wine with food. Well put together. Good.
 
www.clinecellars.com
 

Napa Valley
 
 

Truchard Vineyards

 
The 2011 Chardonnay, Carneros, $30, 13.9% alc., was barrel fermented in French oak, 33% new, and then aged sur lie with bâtonnage in the same barrels for ten months. Thirty percent of the wine completed malolactic fermentation. Aromas of cream, pear, apple, pineapple, peach, floral, and a bit of toasty oak repeat as flavors with the additions of lime, Meyer lemon, and some spice laced with nice acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. It should be popular. Tasty.
 
The 2010 Pinot Noir, Carneros, $35, 13.9% alc., spent ten months in French oak, 35% new. Nice aromas of earth, herb, mineral, cherry, black tea, and a touch of oak precede flavors of the same plus red currant, sweet rhubarb, plum jam, and sweet vanilla. It finishes long and broad. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good.
 
 
 

William Cole Vineyards

 
The 2011 Chardonnay, Cuvée Jean Marie, Napa Valley, $90, 13.5% alc., 50 cases, is William Cole’s first Chardonnay release though not the first Chardonnay Bill Ballentine has made. Aged in neutral French oak for ten months sur lie with bâtonnage plus an additional two months in stainless steel, and with ten percent of the wine completing malolactic fermentation, it has a nose of lees, floral, apple, sweet lemon, and pear. Bright flavors of lemon, lemon peel, grapefruit, green apple, and a hint of pineapple are laced with lively acidity and finish long and medium-broad. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good.
 
Bill Ballentine continues to make Cabernet Sauvignon that needs time in the bottle to develop and open but the 2009 vintage may need somewhat less than previous releases. Still, if you don’t want to give it at least six more years in the bottle, decant it 18-24 hours before you intend to serve it. The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cuvée Claire, Estate, $175, 14.3% alc., 784 cases, spent twenty-seven months in French oak. Ninety-eight percent of the fruit came from the 2.5 acre vineyard at the winery; two percent came from Howell Mountain. Aromas of blackberry, black cherry, currant, chocolate, vanilla, smoky oak, dusty black pepper, and fig introduce flavors of the same laced with very fine, smooth tannin and good acidity. The long, broad finish adds a dot of cinnamon at the front and the wine shows more cherry as it opens. There is a lot happening if you give the wine a chance to show it. Well integrated, structured, and balanced. Very Good
 
For those who like some of the “back story,” the winery is named after Bill and Jane Ballentine’s son, William Cole, the Cabernet’s cuvee honors their daughter, Claire, and Jane finally receives her long overdue recognition with the Chardonnay.
 
You probably won’t find these wines at your local shop but the winery will ship and you can visit if you make an appointment. www.williamcolevineyards.com
 
 

Anomaly Vineyards

 
Anomaly continues to produce Cabernet from its estate vineyard located within the St. Helena city limits. The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena, $85, 14.6% alc., 980 cases, was matured in French oak. A nose of currant, cassis, black cherry, dark chocolate, cranberry, smoke, and a subtle pepper note repeats as flavors with the addition of smoky oak before a long, medium-broad finish. The wine has fine tannin and good acidity and is well structured, integrated, and balanced but it needs another five years in the bottle to develop, open, and begin to show at its best. Good to Very Good.
Anomaly sells almost all of its wine directly from the winery. The price is modest for a Napa Cabernet of this quality and the quantity available is small. If you want its wine, get on the mailing list:
 
 
 

Crocker & Starr

 
Pam Starr bubbles over with enthusiasm when talking about her wines. If you have had them, you know they are worth the sparkle. The only problem is that they are made in limited quantities and you may not be able to find them locally and some are available only direct from the winery. So, contact the winery: www.crockerstarr.com.
 
The 2002 Syrah, St. Helena, $65, 14.9% alc., 80 cases, has developed an attractive bouquet of cherry, blackberry, spice, earth, and smoky oak that repeats on the palate as juicy flavors with the addition of licorice and laced with fine tannin and good acidity. It finishes long and medium-broad. Still youthful, it is well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Good.
 
The 2009 Malbec, St. Helena, $72, 14.6% alc., 120 cases, contains 16% Petit Verdot. Aromas of rare meat, bramble, blueberry, and violets introduce bright, juicy flavors of the same accented with good acidity and fine, tooth coating tannin. The long, medium-broad finish adds hints of toffee, smoky oak, and licorice. Well integrated, structured, and balanced, it needs another two years in the bottle to settle down, develop, and open and begin to show at its best. Good.
 
The 2010 Casali 3, St. Helena, $72, 14.6% alc., 270 cases, is a blend of 55% Malbec and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. Meat, violets, hibiscus, and bramble on the nose introduce broad, juicy flavors of the same with the additions of Ceylon cinnamon, fine tannin, and nice acidity. Everything carries through the long, broad finish. It is easily drinkable now but will be even better if you give it another three years in the bottle. Very Good.
 
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stone Place, St. Helena, $110, 14.4% alc., 700 cases, spent twenty months in French oak, 80% new. Aromas of dark roast coffee, truffle, blueberry, plum, blackberry, currant, smoke, and dark chocolate introduce juicy, fresh, lively flavors of the same shot through with very fine, smooth tannin and good acidity. It finishes long and very broad. Well put together, it will benefit from another five years in the bottle.
 
Crocker & Starr’s second label is Bridesmaid. The 2009 Bridesmaid Red, Napa Valley, $39, 800 cases, is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Malbec. It opens with sweet accented cherry, raspberry, meat, currant, blackberry, and smoke. Forward, fairly light bodied flavors of the same with good acidity and moderate tannin finish long and medium-broad with a dollop of pepper in the middle. Very Tasty.
 
 
Long Meadow Ranch Winery
 
The 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, Rutherford, $20, 12.9% alc., saw no oak and has appealing, sweet accented aromas of pear, pineapple, melon, apple, and fruit blossom. All repeat as flavors but in the reverse order with nice acidity and finish medium-broad and truncated. Straight forward and well put together. www.longmeadowranch.com
 

 

Plumpjack

 
 
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, McWilliams Vineyard, Estate, Oakville, $98, 15% alc., spent twenty months in French oak, 80% new. Aromas of pepper, bramble, very ripe black cherry and blackberry, and oak precede round, smooth, very ripe, jammy, medium bodied flavors of the same plus notes of vanilla that finish long and medium-broad with the addition of pepper. Some alcohol shows at the end. Well put together in a very ripe, soft style.
 
The 2010 Syrah, [Atlas Peak and Carneros], Napa Valley, $48, 14.6% alc., was aged in 60% new French oak for seventeen months. A nose of earth, oak, bacon, and coffee repeats as smoothly textured flavors with the addition of some cherry and black raspberry shot through with light, fine tannin and moderate acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.
 
 
 
 

Ghost Pines

 
 
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, 70% Napa County, 30% Sonoma County, $20, 13.9% alc., was aged in French oak has a light nose of baked cherry, chocolate syrup, vanilla, blueberry, and smoky oak. Flavors of cherry, blackberry, blueberry, smoky oak, and mocha are laced with significant tannin and moderate acidity. The fairly persistent finish broadens at the back.
 
 

CENTRAL COAST
 
 

Cambria Estate Winery

 
 
The 2011 Chardonnay, Katherine’s Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, $22, 13.9% alc., was aged for six months in 83% French oak, 15% new, opens with light oak and chalk before mouth filling, juicy flavors of lemon, green apple, pineapple, and a touch of toasty oak. The medium-broad, medium-long finish has a hint of bitterness at the end. www.cambriawine.com
 

 

Castoro Cellars

 
 
The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Estate, [Dos Viñas Vineyard], Paso Robles, $14, 13% alc., contains a “touch of Gewürztraminer” from Castoro’s from its Hog Heaven vineyard. Made entirely in stainless steel, it has a nose of creamy apple, pineapple, Bosc pear, and hay. The palate adds baking spices and good acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.
 
 

Vina Robles

 
The 2012 Viognier, Huerhuero Vineyard, Paso Robles, $22, 13.9% alc., 235 cases, was aged in neutral French oak for four months.   (mandarin, ginger, honeysuckle; creamy mouthfeel, mandarin)
 
The 2012 Roseum, Huerhuero Vineyard, $13, 14.9% alc., 480 cases, is made from Syrah. Made in stainless steel, it has big, forward cherry, strawberry, pomegranate, meat, and herb aromas. Juicy flavors of the same plus notes of spice and caramel are laced with good acidity and finish medium-broad and medium-long. This is quite dark colored for a rosé and can easily substitute for a lighter red. Well balanced structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
 
 
 

Bridlewood Estate Winery

 
The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, $15, 13.8% alc., contains 17% Merlot and 3% Petite Sirah. Aged for eight months mostly in stainless steel with micro-oxygenation it has a bright nose of blackberry, black cherry, currant, and smoky oak. Bright, jammy, sweet flavors of the same fruit plus chocolate and dark brown sugar finish broad and medium-long with persistent smoky oak. Straight forward and well balanced, structured, and integrated in a jammy, big fruit style.
 
The 2011 Blend 175, Central Coast, $15, 13% alc., is a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, and Petite Sirah. A nose of black cherry, sweat socks, chocolate, and blackberry introduces jammy, sweet fruit flavors of black cherry, raspberry, and blackberry plus touches of chocolate and sweet oak. The medium-long finish broadens at the back. Well put together.
 
 

LAKE & MENDOCINO COUNTIES
 
 

Shooting Star

 
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Lake County, $15, 13.8% alc., spent twelve months in American oak, 25% new. The final blend contains small amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. A nose of chocolate, bacon, cherry, blackberry, herb, and cigar box introduces flavors of cherry, blackberry, rhubarb, and blackberry laced with tooth coating tannin and good acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long with an added note of cinnamon. The bacon fades as the wine opens. A fairly light bodied Cab’ to accompany ‘burgers and other such foods. Well put together.
 
 
 
OTHER CALIFORNIA
 
 

Barefoot

 
The nv Zinfandel, Lodi, $7, 13.5% alc., opens with nice aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, subtle oak, and a touch of vanilla. The same repeat as sweet edged flavors with an added bit of spice and laced with moderate acidity and very light tannin. The medium-broad, medium-long finish adds a touch of smoke. A straight forward, popularly styled Zin’ with good intensity. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. BEST BUY. www.barefootwine.com
 
 

Oak Ridge Winery

 
Oak Ridge has several different labels that it uses for its wines. Included below are some of the wines it releases under Moss Roxx Vineyards, Maggio Family Vineyards, and 3 Girls Vineyards. Each label has its own website. But first the Oak Ridge OZV.
 
The 2009 OZV, Lodi, $13, 13.9% alc., is a Zinfandel (OZV stands for Old Zin Vines) with soft, very ripe, almost cooked aromas of raspberry jam, cherry, and vanilla. Sweet flavors of the fruit are reminiscent of pie filling with almost no tannin and very soft acidity before a medium-broad, truncated finish. If you like your Zin’ on the sweet side, try this one.
 
 

Moss Roxx Vineyards

 
The 2009 Zinfandel, Ancient Vine, Lodi, $23, 14.5% alc., contains 7% Petite Sirah and is very ripe. Pie filling like aromas of mostly black raspberry and black cherry introduce sweet, soft, jam like flavors of the same in the reverse order with notes of leather, vanilla, caramel, and a hint of tannin. The finish is medium-long and broadens at the back. If you like a sweeter Zinfandel, try this one. www.mossroxxvineyards.com
 
 

Maggio Family Vineyards

 
The 2011 Pinot Grigio, California, $11, 12.9% alc., has a floral, mineral, and sweet grapefruit nose before flavors of grapefruit, lemon meringue, and mineral with moderate acidity. The medium-long finish broadens at the back where grapefruit peel appears. A lean, straight forward Pinot Grigio. Well put together.
 
The 2011 Chardonnay, Lodi, $11, 13% alc., has a very light nose before juicy lemon, green apple, lemon peel, and pomelo flavors that finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together.
 
 
 

3 Girls Vineyards

 
 
The 2011 Chardonnay, Lodi, $14, 13% alc., is 96% Chardonnay and 4% Symphony. A nose of rose talc and sweet baked apple introduces mouth filling, juicy flavors of baked apple, lemon, pear, and Rangpoor lime shot through with good acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty.
 
The 2011 Pinot Noir, $14, 13% alc., contains 16% Zinfandel. Sweet accented aromas of baked dark cherry and vanilla introduce flavors of cherry, red currant, and a hint of pepper with very light tannin and moderate acidity. It finishes long and broad at the back. The Zin’ makes this a very dark colored Pinot. Straight forward and well put together.
 
The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi, $14, 13% alc., is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Zinfandel, and 5% Petite Sirah. Restrained aromas of linen, black cherry, chocolate, black raspberry, and a touch of oak introduce round, juicy, sweet flavors of the same fruit plus cranberry, cocoa, and a hint of oak laced with light, fine tannin and moderate acidity. The finish is broad and medium-long. If you like a sweeter style Cab’, try this one.
 
.

 

Bogle Vineyards and Winery

 
The 2010 Essential Red, [Lodi and Clarksburg]. California. $11, 13.5% alc., spent eighteen months in American and French oak. It is a blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petite Sirah. Bright, ripe aromas of cherry, raspberry, cranberry, blackberry, pepper, and smoky oak introduce juicy flavors of the same laced with good acidity and fine tannin. The wine finishes medium-broad and medium long. This is a well balanced, structured, and integrated red to serve with ‘burgers, pizza, red sauced pasta, and the like. Very Tasty. BEST BUY.
 
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, [Lodi and Clarksburg], California, $11, 13.5% alc., was matured in American oak for fourteen months. Light aromas of cherry, blackberry, herb, smoky oak, and allspice precede flavors of the same plus cassis, black pepper, and black olive laced with significant tannin and moderate acidity. Everything carries through the long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty. BEST BUY!
 
The 2101 Old Vine Zinfandel, [Lodi and Amador], California, $11, was aged in previously used American oak for twelve months. The fruit was harvested from vines sixty to eighty-years-old.  A soft nose of cherry, raspberry, blackberry, and dark toast introduces bright flavors of the same plus spices (nutmeg and clove) at the sides and the addition of oak, good acidity, and very light tannin throughout. It finishes long and medium-broad and lifted at the back. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will pair nicely with a wide range of food. Very Tasty. BEST BUY.
 
 

Mirassou Winery

 
The 2011 Sunset Red Blend, California, $12, 13.5% alc., is a blend of mostly Pinot Noir with Zinfandel and Merlot added primarily to achieve additional body and rounder mouthfeel. Aromas of cherry, oak, earth, and a green note introduce sweet accented flavors mostly of cherry and sweet vanilla accented with fine tannin and moderate acidity. The long finish broadens at the back. A well put together, straight forward, lighter red that can serve as a nice choice for an everyday wine. Tasty. BEST BUY.
 
 

Leese-Fitch

 
The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, California, $12, 13% alc., has very soft aromas of sweet apple, sweet lemon, and a hint of spice before flavors of lemon, lemon peel, green apple, and mandarin that finish long and broad. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it can serve as an everyday Sauvignon Blanc or as a nice quaff for your next party, picnic, or beach outing.
 
 
 
COLORADO
 
 

Cottonwood Cellars

 
The nv Classic Blend, Colorado, $17, % alc., spent one year in American oak, 50% new, has a light nose of cherry, raspberry, smoke, and a leather note before bright, almost tart and fairly light bodied flavors of the same just touched with tannin. It finishes long and medium-broad. Well put together, serve it cold for an aperitif or an afternoon on the deck. Drink now.  www.cottoncellars.com
 
 
 
 
ARGENTINA
 
 

Don Miguel Gascón

 
The 2011 Colosal Red Blend, Mendoza, $15, 14.1% alc., is a blend of 61% Malbec, 16% Bonarda, 13% Syrah, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Most was aged in French and American oak for fifteen months. The nose of black cherry, black raspberry, blackberry, plum, and a touch of smoky oak has nice depth and ripeness. Mouth filling flavors of the same juicy ripe fruit plus some chocolate and mint, and smoky oak finish medium-broad, medium-long and persistent. The blend and ripeness yield a bigger wine than might be expected from any of the individual components. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
 
 
AUSTRALIA
 
 

Plantagenet

 
The 2011 Chardonnay, Omrah, Great Southern, Western Australia, $15, 13.5% alc., has an attractive nose of tropical floral, pineapple, papaya, sweet lemon, and apple. Bright flavors of the same but in the reverse order plus a mineral note are laced with good acidity finish medium-broad and medium-long. Fairly light bodied and well put together, try it with simply prepared fish. A well put together and a nice Chard’ to accompany food. Very Tasty.
 
 
 

Greg Norman Wine Estates

 
The 2011 Chardonnay, Eden Valley, $15, 12% alc., was fermented and then aged sur lie with bâtonnage, in French oak for eight months. A light nose of oak, sweet apple, mineral, and nectarine leads to crisp flavors of the same plus lemon-lime and lemon peel laced with juicy acidity. The medium-long finish broadens at the back. A well put together, straight forward Chard’ that will pair well with food.
 
The 2010 Cabernet Merlot, Limestone Coast, $15, 14% alc., is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. Each component was aged separately for twenty-three months before the final blend was assembled. Rich, inviting aromas of black cherry, blackberry, dark chocolate, currant, blueberry, raspberry, spice, vanilla, and smoky oak repeat as lively flavors plus sweet strawberry and coffee with good presence laced with fine, tooth coating tannin and good acidity. Everything carries through the long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated in the traditional, big, rich fruit style of Australian reds. Very good.
 
 
 
ITALY
 
 

Bella Sera

 
The nv Red Blend, Italy, $8, 13.5% alc., is a blend of 31% Merlot, 23% Syrah, 15% Bonarda, 12% Lambrusco, 7% Sangiovese, 5% Montepulciano, and 7% other. Cedar, blackberry, chocolate syrup, and smoke on the nose introduce round, smoothly textured flavors of the same with firm acidity and very light tannin. The finish is medium-broad and truncated. Well put together and not sweet, it can serve as an aperitif or an accompaniment for pizza and the like.
]]> http://haroldbaerwine.com/2013/04/new-notes-april-2013/feed/ 0 Zinfandel: Many Different Styles http://haroldbaerwine.com/2013/03/zinfandel-many-different-styles-3/ http://haroldbaerwine.com/2013/03/zinfandel-many-different-styles-3/#comments Thu, 14 Mar 2013 17:48:51 +0000 harold http://haroldbaerwine.com/?p=754 Continue reading →]]> Zinfandel producers continue their range of production styles. While more are beginning to move toward wines with lower alcohol, higher acidity, and balanced tannins, others continue a trend that began in the 1990s of super ripe, very rich, heavily extracted Zinfandels with soft tannins and modest (at best) acidity. It is not an either/or approach as there is a continuum of wine styles from different vintners. This benefits the consumer as it gives an entire range from which to choose depending upon preferences and whether one wishes to pair the wine with food or to have it before or after a meal or at some other time or for some other purpose.
 
A recent opportunity to taste a fair number of Zinfandels illustrated these approaches. Notes on some of them follow but I have not included notes on those with very high alcohols. For convenience, the notes are in alphabetical order by winery to help you locate one in which you may have a particular interest.
 
 
 
Accademia dei Racemi
 
We most often see this grape made by Italian wineries denoted as Primitivo and made in large quantities in Puglia. In the past they have been big, ripe, crude wines usually made by co-ops that purchased grapes from growers who sought to produce quantity without particular regard to quality. Fortunately, that is changing and the Italian Primitivi are worth exploring.
 
The 2011 Zinfandel, Sinfarosa D.O.P., $28, 15% alc., was aged in equal amounts of Slavonian oak and stainless steel. Aromas of cherry, leather, and blackberry introduce flavors dominated by candied cherry accented with dry tannin and moderate acidity. The medium-broad, truncated finish shows some alcohol. Straight forward. www.accademiadeiracemi.it
 
Whether labeled as Primitivo, as is usual in Italy and is occasionally seen from elsewhere, or Zinfandel, it is the same grape although it does have some differences in resistance to diseases and can produce different wines even where the grapes are grown in the same vineyard. If you want a comparison of the two grown in alternate rows but handled the same way, try the wines from Dry Creek Valley vintner Collier Falls.
 
 
 
Bogle Vineyards
 
The 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel, [Lodi and Amador], California, $11, was aged in previously used American oak for twelve months. The fruit was harvested from vines sixty to eighty-years-old. A soft nose of cherry, raspberry, blackberry, and dark toast introduces bright flavors of the same plus spices (nutmeg and clove) at the sides and the addition of oak, good acidity, and very light tannin throughout. It finishes long and medium-broad and lifted at the back. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will pair nicely with a wide range of food. Very Tasty. BEST BUY.
 
 
Barefoot
 
The nv Zinfandel, Lodi, $7, 13.5% alc., opens with nice aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, subtle oak, and a touch of vanilla. The same repeat as sweet edged flavors with an added bit of spice and laced with moderate acidity and very light tannin. The medium-broad, medium-long finish adds a touch of smoke. A straight forward, popularly styled Zin’ with good intensity. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. BEST BUY. www.barefootwine.com
 
 
Brown Estate Vineyards
 
The 2011 Zinfandel, Napa Valley, $42, 14.5% alc., has intense aromas of pepper, black raspberry, black cherry, and smoky oak. Smooth, sweet accented flavors of the same are laced with moderate tannin and finish long and broad at the back. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good. www.brownestate.com
 
 
Castoro Cellars
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Estate, Paso Robles, $15, 15%, contains 6% Petite Sirah. Aged in oak for twelve months, has a nose of bramble, cherry, blackberry, and smoke. The palate adds pepper and oak plus light tannin and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, truncated finish with some alcohol showing at the end. Well put together. www.castorocellars.com
 
 
Chatom Vineyards
 
The 2008 Zinfandel, Sierra Foothills, $20, 15.5% alc., has a nose of cherry, blackberry, and pepper that introduce bright, juicy flavors of the same with fine tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish with a bit of alcohol showing at the end. www.chatomvineyards.com
 
 
Collier Falls Vineyard
 
The 2007 Zinfandel, Private Reserve, Dry Creek Valley, $34, 15.7% alc., spent fifteen months in American oak, one-third new, and has an attractive floral, cherry, raspberry, and blackberry nose. The palate adds lots of pepper, fine tannin, and nice acidity. Everything carries through the medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good.
 
The 2009 Primitivo, Dry Creek Valley, $34, 15% alc., was aged in French and American oak, one-third new, for eighteen months. It is very ripe with aromas of sweet cherry, raspberry, clove, blueberry, and soft pepper. Smooth, juicy, round, and fairly soft flavors of the same are laced with fine tannin and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish that adds just a touch of oak. Well put together. Very Tasty.
 
 
 
 
Dancing Lady Wines
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Old Vine, Della Costa Family Vineyard, Alexander Valley, $27, 15.1% alc., has aromas of cherry, raspberry, strawberry jam, and smoky oak. All repeat as flavors with the addition of pepper at the very front and shot through with fine tannin and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, truncated finish. www.dancingladywines.com
 
 
Dane Cellars
 
Dane makes several Zinfandels with grapes from Sonoma Valley. All are well put together and it is interesting to note the differences between them,
 
The 2008 Zinfandel, Old Vine “Field Blend”, Sonoma Valley, $32, 15% alc., has lifted cherry and floral aromas before light bodied cherry, cranberry, raspberry, and pepper flavors with very light tannin and moderate acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long.
 
The 2009 Zinfandel, Gehricke Road, Sonoma Valley, $36, 14.9% alc., shows intense raspberry, cherry, and some smoky oak. Smooth, light bodied flavors of the same with moderate tannin and acidity finish medium-broad and medium-long. Nicely structured, integrated, and balanced.
 
The 2009 Zinfandel, Los Chamizal Vineyard, Sonoma Valley, $36, 14.6% alc., has a nose of chocolate, cherry, and blackberry. Smoothly textured and light bodied flavors of the same are accented with light, fine tannin and moderate acidity. The long finish broadens at the back and adds a blob of pepper at the center. Well integrated, balanced, and structured.
 
 
 
Dry Creek Vineyard
 
The 2010 Heritage Zinfandel, Sonoma County, $19, 13.5% alc., contains 12% Petite Sirah and was aged for fourteen months in French, American, and Hungarian oak, 15% new. Soft aromas of black raspberry, pepper, cherry, blackberry, blueberry, and hints of spice, earth, and mineral repeat as fairly light bodied flavors plus pepper, light tannin, and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, somewhat truncated finish. The fairly young vines from which the fruit for this wine comes yield a good, everyday Zin’ to pair with lighter foods. www.drycreekvineyard.com
 
 
Frank Family Vineyards
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Napa Valley, $34, 15% alc., opens with aromas of cherry, raspberry, a touch of chocolate, and currant all pushed by the alcohol before flavors of the same with added pepper at the front and laced with light tannin and moderate acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish has particularly persistent pepper and cherry and the wine has a hint of sweetness. Well put together. www.frankfamilyvineyards.com
 
 
Grgich Hills Estate
 
The 2009 Zinfandel, Napa Valley, $35, 15.3%, opens with intense pomegranate, raspberry, and a touch of oak. All repeat as flavors with the additions of pepper and bright acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish that shows some alcohol at the end. Well put together.
 
 
Hartford Family Winery
 
The 2011 Zinfandel, Highwire Vineyard, Russian River Valley, $55, 15.4% alc., spent eleven months in French oak, 45% new. This is a big, dark, extracted Zinfandel with aromas of bramble, dark cherry, blackberry, boysenberry, and cedar. Juicy flavors of the same are laced with moderate tannin and nice acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. If this is the style of Zin’ that you like, it is one of the best. Well put together. Very Tasty.
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Jolene’s, Russian River Valley, $55, 15.5% alc., has aromas that are lighter in intensity than the Highwire with black cherry, blackberry, and oak notes. Round, juicy flavors of the same are accented with light, fine tannin and moderate acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish adds lots of pepper at the front and it is quite persistent. Well put together, the wine is medium bodied with enough fruit to cover the alcohol and is drinking nicely now.
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Fannucchi-Wood Road Vineyard, Russian River Valley, $55, 14.5% alc., opens with cherry, black raspberry, blackberry, and smoky oak. Somewhat light bodied with clean flavors of the same fruit and oak laced with very light tannin and moderate acidity, it finishes medium-broad and medium-long with pepper that develops right in the middle. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty.
 
 
 
 
 
Hendry
 
The Hendry family has been growing grapes in northern Napa Valley since it purchased what became Hendry Ranch in 1939. Initially, only a small portion of the property was planted to grapes with the larger portion in prune orchard and pasture. That changed with Napa’s growing prominence for its wines and the most of the property was replanted to vineyard in the years 1973-1975.
 
Initially, the fruit was sold to Robert Mondavi and Kent Rosenblum who made a George Hendry Reserve Zinfandel. Beginning in 1992, George Hendry began making wine under his own label and the vineyards were expanded in 1994. The winery building was built in 2000 when production increased to the point where Hendry needed its own facility. It now produces about a dozen different wines. All are carefully crafted including two Zinfandels and a Primitivo.
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Blocks 7 & 22, Napa Valley, $35, 14.6% alc., spent fifteen months in French oak, one-third new. Black cherry, blackberry, and some smoky oak on the nose introduce juicy flavors of the same fruit with the oak underneath and good acidity and very fine tannin, it finishes long and medium-broad. It is big but leans more toward elegance than power, it has enough acidity to pair well with food. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
 
In contrast, the 2010 Zinfandel, Block 28, Napa Valley, $35, 15.9% alc., 500 cases, is much riper. Aromas of baked cherry and blackberry introduce sweet accented flavors plus some spice of the same that are smooth from the ripeness, somewhat thinned by the alcohol, and laced with moderate acidity and just a hint of tannin. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long. If you like ripe, slightly sweet, smoothly textured Zin’, try this one.
 
 
 
Jaxon Keys Winery & Distillery
 
Jaxon Keys has nineteen wines in current release although that includes two vintages of the Assemblage. Notes on the two Zinfandels and the newer Assemblage follow.
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Ravazzi Vineyard, Etta’s Block, Mendocino County, $20, 14.8% alc., has restrained aromas of black cherry, raspberry, vanilla, and caramel. Light bodied flavors of the same with modest acidity and very light tannin finish medium-broad and very truncated.
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Ravazzi Vineyard, Mae’s Block, Mendocino County, $24, 15.6% alc., opens with clear cherry and raspberry aromas before flavors of the same which smoky, almost dirty, and laced with rough tannin and light acidity before a medium-broad, truncated finish.
 
The 2010 Assemblage, Estate Red Wine, Mendocino County, $28, 14.9% alc., is a blend of 60% Zinfandel, 15% each of Petite Sirah and Syrah, and 10% Grenache. A nose of black fruit compote: blackberry, plum, and cherry repeats on the nose with the addition of unsweetened chocolate and accented with rough tannin and moderate acidity. It finishes medium-broad and very truncated.
 
 
 
 
 
JC Cellars
 
The 2010 The Impostor, California, $35, 14.8% alc., is a blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Mourvèdre, and Viognier. Raspberry, cherry, red pepper, unsweetened chocolate, and lavender on the nose introduce rich, round, forward, moderately intense flavors of the same with fine tannin and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Intriguing.
 
Jeff Cohn likes his Zinfandels big, very ripe, and with alcohol levels to match. If that is a style you prefer, make sure to try his.
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Botticelli Vineyard, Rockpile, $42, 15.5% alc., 112 cases, was matured in French oak, 35% new. Soft, rich, very ripe aromas of mostly cherry, plum, and raspberry lead to dark, almost burnt flavors of the same fruit with chocolate accents. It finishes medium-broad and truncated.
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Dusi Vineyard, Paso Robles, $35, 15.5% alc., 250 cases, was aged in 25% new French oak and has a nose of cooked cherry, black raspberry, bramble, and spice. Flavors of the same fruit are soft edged with prominent spice at the front and accented with fine tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish.
 
 
 
Jelly Jar Wines
 
Jelly Jar is a small winery in the Napa Valley. Andy Pestoni is a fourth generation winemaker who believes that wines should be made to be enjoyed “around the family table” where the earlier generations of Italian immigrants most often drank them out of jelly jars or similar glassware. That is not much different from what you will find in many trattoria in Italy.
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Old Vine, [Nova Vineyard, Kelseyville], Lake County, $24, 14.2% alc., spent ten months in French oak, 30% new, and has aromas of black cherry, raspberry jam, pomegranate, and a touch of oak. Clean, fresh flavors of the same are laced with fine tannin and nice acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish adds persistent pepper. The wine has good presence and mouth feel and everything is well balanced, structured, and integrated. This would be a superior choice for an everyday Zin’. Tasty. www.jellyjarwine.com
 
 
Kenneth Volk Vineyards
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Enz Vineyard, Lime Kiln Valley, Paso Robles, $36, 15.4% alc., has aromas of cherry liqueur, toast, and oak before juicy flavors of cherry, raspberry, and rhubarb laced with fine tannin before a medium-broad, truncated finish.
 
The 2009 Zinfandel, “Terraces”, Paso Robles, $36, 14.8% alc., is sourced from young vines. Lifted cherry, raspberry, and blackberry on the nose introduces nice smooth, ripe, bright flavors of the same before a broad, medium-long finish. Nicely balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty.
 
 
 
Maggio Family Vineyards
 
The 2009 Zinfandel, Old Vine, Lodi, $11, 13% alc., has nice cherry-raspberry flavors accented with moderate acidity before a long finish that broadens at the back.  www.maggiofamilyvineyards.com
 
 
McCay Cellars
 
The 2009 Zinfandel, Jupiter, Lodi, $28, 14.7% alc., show ripe cherry, smoke, and raspberry on the nose before tart cherry, raspberry, cranberry, and rhubarb flavors shot through with nice acidity and fine tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together.
The 2009 Zinfandel, Truluck’s, Lodi, $32, 14.6% alc., opens with blackberry, boysenberry, cherry, and a hint of chocolate. The palate adds light pepper at the sides, grainy tannin, and moderate acidity before a finish on the back half of the palate with some alcohol showing at the end.
 
 
 
Moss Roxx Vineyards
 
The 2009 Zinfandel, Ancient Vines, Lodi, $23, 14.5% alc., contains 7% Petite Sirah and is very ripe. Pie filling like aromas of mostly black raspberry and black cherry introduce sweet, soft, jam like flvors of the same in the reverse order with notes of leather, vanilla, caramel, and a hint of tannin. The finish is medium-long and broadens at the back. If you like a sweeter Zinfandel, try this one. www.mossroxxvineyards.com
 
 
OZV
 
The 2009 OZV, Lodi, $13, 13.9% alc., is a Zinfandel (OZV stands for Old Zin Vines) with soft, very ripe, almost cooked aromas of raspberry jam, cherry, and vanilla. Sweet flavors of the fruit are reminiscent of pie filling with almost no tannin and very soft acidity before a medium-broad, truncated finish. If you like your Zin’ on the sweet side, try this one.
 
The nv OZV Sweet Solera Zin, Lodi, $30/500 ml., 18.3% alc., has a sweet nose of chocolate, vanilla, dark fruit compote, and orange marmalade that introduces sweet flavors of the same with the addition of pepper at the sides before a medium-broad, medium-long finish with persistent pepper. There is enough acidity to keep the wine from being cloying. Indeed, it is lighter on the palate than the nose would lead one to expect but it will probably gain in weight and richness with more time in the bottle. Tasty.
 
 
 
Peju Province Winery
 
The 2009 Zinfandel, Napa Valley, $30, 15.5% alc., smells like a Montmorency cherry pie. Flavors of the same plus pepper are accented with a hint of sweetness, fine tannin, and moderate acidity before a long, medium-broad finish. Well put together and if you are a fan of cherry pie, this one’s for you. It doesn’t come ala mode; that’s up to you. www.peju.com
 
 
 
Ravenswood
 
The 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel,[95% Lodi, 5% Mendocino], Lodi, $14, 14.9% alc., contains 23% Petite Sirah. Fermented with wild yeast it shows bramble, earth, dark cherry, currant, raspberry, clove, smoke, and a chocolate note on the nose. Broad, bright edged flavors of the same are laced with light tannin and moderate acidity before a broad, long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated but without much intensity it can serve nicely for everyday drinking.
 
Quite different is the 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel, Napa Valley, $16, 14.5% alc. A blend of 76% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Sirah, and 1% Carignane, it was aged in French oak, 30% new, for 14 months, and has an inviting nose of smoke, leather, raspberry, cherry, vanilla, blackberry, brown spice, cocoa, and a hint of caramel. Restrained flavors of the same with the cocoa now dark chocolate, are accented with nice acidity and light, fine tannin before a broad, long finish. Well integrated, structured, and balanced. Good.
 
 
 
Sanctuary
 
The 2009 Zinfandel, Mariah Vineyard, Mendocino Ridge, $30, 14.2% alc., contains 5% Petite Sirah. A nose of cherry, raspberry, blackberry, and a touch of pepper introduces juicy flavors of the same fruit that are ripe but not sweet and are laced with light tannin and good acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty. www.sanctuarywines.com
 
 
Storybook Mountain
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Estate, Mayacamas Range, Napa Valley, $36, % alc., has a big, dense fruit nose of black cherry, black raspberry, pepper, and bramble before powerful, iron fist in a velvet glove flavors of the same with good tannin and acidity. Everything carries to the end of the long, broad finish. Big, elegant, well integrated, structured, and balanced. Very Good. www.storybookwines.com
 
 
 
 
 
Witching Stick Wines
 
This is Van Williamson’s new label. He long practiced his artistry at Edmeades where he made carefully crafted wines. The single vineyard Zinfandels were often high alcohol but were never hot or sweet, a result not many can manage. He also made a wonderful Pinot Gris that was not released. At Witching Stick he has gone the other way but the wines are every bit as good, perhaps even better—and they clearly demonstrate that wonderful Zinfandel can be made without it being either very ripe or high in alcohol.
 
Production is still small and if you can’t find them locally, contact the winery. www.witchingstickwines.com
 
 
The 2010 Zinfandel Rosato, Fashauer Vineyard, Anderson Valley, $38, 12.8% alc., spent eighteen months in old oak and has a nose of cherry and raspberry hard candy that repeat with addition of lemon as flavors laced with crisp acidity and just a touch of tannin. It finishes long and medium-broad. Bright, zippy, and just the thing to pair with food. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Good.
 
The 2010 Zinandel, Fashauer Vineyard, Anderson Valley, $38, $12.8% alc., was aged in French oak, 50% new, for eighteen months. Raspberry, cherry, bramble, and pepper on the nose introduce great, juicy fruit accented with very fine tannin and great acidity before a long, medium-broad finish. This is a well put together Zin’ that will be a great complement to food. Try it with a pork roast. Very Good.
 
 
Woodenhead
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Bertoli Vineyard, Leras Ranches, Russian River Valley, $30, 15.2% alc., 172 cases, opens with dark, forward fruit mostly black raspberry and black cherry plus pepper before lean, almost tart flavors of the same accented with light fine tannin. It finishes long and broad at the back. Well put together.
 
The 2009, Guido Venturi Vineyard, Mendocino County, $34, 15.2% alc., 303 cases, is very ripe with aromas of bramble, black cherry, plum, and smoky oak. Lighter bodied that the nose would lead one to expect, it has nice brambly fruit, moderate acidity, and fine tannin before a long, mediujm-broad finish. Well balanced, integrated, and structured. Very Tasty.
 
The 2007 Zinfandel, Martinelli Road Vineyard, Russian River Valley, $45, 16.5% alc., 434 cases, is super ripe with baked black cherry, briar, and raspberry on the nose before liqueur like flavors of the same laced with soft tannins and soft acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish shows alcohol at the end. If you like sweet, almost thick, high alcohol Zin’, try this one.
 
]]> http://haroldbaerwine.com/2013/03/zinfandel-many-different-styles-3/feed/ 0 Hillside Napa: Spring Mountain & Howell Mountain http://haroldbaerwine.com/2013/02/hillside-napa-spring-mountain-howell-mountain-2/ http://haroldbaerwine.com/2013/02/hillside-napa-spring-mountain-howell-mountain-2/#comments Fri, 01 Mar 2013 00:09:26 +0000 harold http://haroldbaerwine.com/?p=728 Continue reading →]]> Most visitors to the Napa Valley go for the chance to taste or drink some of the wines from its over 400 vintners. While you can enter the valley from the north, east, and west, it is from the south that most arrive having begun the journey in the San Francisco Bay area and connected to Highway 29 that runs up the west side of the valley. Once they reach the city of Napa, the choice is to continue north on Highway 29 or cross to the east side of the valley and go north on the Silverado Trail. Either choice goes past more wineries than one can possibly visit in an extended stay and neither route will disappoint as both will give access to many fine producers. But for those who have traversed Highway 29 or the Trail in the past and who wish to get off the most traveled routes there are other options.
 
The notes which follow cover some of the wineries located in the Spring Mountain District and on Howell Mountain. Both are near the north end of the valley: Spring Mountain is to the west of St. Helena and Howell Mountain is to the east. Both offer more wineries than anyone can comfortably visit in one day and there are many other wines that are covered here but are well worth visiting. So choose these or others but take time to explore Spring Mountain and Howell Mountain.
 
Most of these wineries are small and most require you to telephone for an appointment. Do not let that stop you because the additional effort is worth the time. The very fact that these wineries are small means that their owners have more flexibility to decide what to make the style of wines they prefer whether or not that style is currently popular with critics or large portions of the wine drinking public. This is because if they make well crafted wines there will be enough people out there their few hundred or few thousand cases. They don’t to please wine writers in order to sell tens or hundreds of thousands of cases. (That does not mean that small vintners do not concern themselves with selling their small quantities, they do. It also does not mean large wineries can afford to make bad wine.) Also, because the wineries are small many are not widely distributed and visiting will afford you the opportunity to discover something new and to see whether you prefer those wines to others with which you are already familiar. An additional attraction is that with many of the wineries you will meet the owner or winemaker in the “tasting room,” if it even exists and can discuss their wines without the sales pitch common in large tasting rooms.
 
 
 
Spring Mountain District
 
 
Spring Mountain Road is a narrow two lane which means than you can drive slowly and relax. Whether you decide to visit wineries on the way up or go to the top and visit on the way down or whether the timing of your visits means you do both, you can’t get lost as, with the exception of Cain, all of the wineries entrances are reached directly from Spring Mountain Road. Just pay attention to the addresses and you should have no problems. For convenience, the notes that follow start at the bottom and proceed to the top.
 
The first winery you will arrive at as you begin your way up Spring Mountain is
 
 
 
Spring Mountain Winery
 
 
 
The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Estate, [Spring Mountain District], Napa Valley, $40, 14.5% alc., contains 16% Semillon. Fermented in neutral French oak sur lie with bâtonnage, has an attractive nose of peach, pear, apple, pineapple, sweet lime, floral, and a touch of kiwi. All repeat as smoothly textured flavors laced with good acidity and with the additions of Clementine and kiwi before a nice finish that adds a ribbon of spice down the center. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty.
 
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, [Spring Mountain District], Napa Valley, $75, 14.3% alc., is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Merlot. Aged in new French oak for twenty-two months, it opens with cherry, raspberry, cassis, currant, leather, smoky oak, and a touch of earth on the nose. Fresh, lively flavors of the same plus blackberry, spice, and some chocolate finish long and broad. Well integrated, structured, and balanced, with good acidity that will make it a complement to food, it is easily drinkable now (decant it a couple of hours before) but will be even better with another five years in the bottle. Very Good.
 
The 2009 Elivette, Estate, [Spring Mountain District], Napa Valley, $125, 14.4% alc., is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 12% Petit Verdot, 10% Merlot, and 1% Malbec. Matured for twenty-two months in new French oak, it has an elegant nose of blackberry, cassis, black cherry, plum, chocolate, boysenberry, leather, floral, and light smoke. All continue as flavors with the addition of tobacco and laced with very fine tannin and nice acidity before a long, broad finish. Nicely round and with lots happening, it needs another five years in the bottle to develop and begin to show at its best. Well integrated, structured, and balanced. Very Good
 
 
 
 
As you continue up Spring Mountain Road you will pass a number of wineries. They are worth a visit but the next stop requires a detour. On your left will be Langtry Road, named after the British music hall singer (née Emilie Charlotte Le Breton) and royal mistress. Langtry is narrow and winding and you will pass orchards and vineyards before you get to a sign denoting the end of the public and beginning of the private part of the road. Keep going and at the end you will see signs for Cain. Take the left fork (the right ends up behind the winery) and take care because just before you get the winery and offices the road goes up and drops sharply and you can’t see where it goes until you get to the top. Go down, turn right, and park and then before you go in look around and get an idea of the slopes upon which Cain’s vineyards are planted.
 
 
 
Cain Vineyard and Winery
 
 
 
Jerry and Joyce Cain purchased the property that is now the winery and vineyards in 1980 and planted it to the five main Bordeaux varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. Using their fruit, they first produced Cain Five in 1985 and it remains the winery’s premier wine through the current release. The Cains retired in 1991 and Jim and Nancy Meadlock who had become partners in 1986 took over as sole owners and remain so today.
 
The wines have been made by Christopher Howell since he came to Cain in 1990 after time at Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Peter Michael. Both the style and high quality at Cain have remained consistent. The wines not only reflect the vineyards but are clearly crafted to create wines that will complement food. There is more information which provides insight to the vineyards including an especially informative video on pruning at the winery’s website: www.cainfive.com.
 
In the past Cain has made a Sauvignon Musqué but it now limits its wines to three reds. The NV09 Cain Cuvée, Napa Valley, $34, 14% alc., is a blend of 54% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Petit Verdot from vineyards in Rutherford, Oakville, Yountville, Spring Mountain, and Atlas Peak. Fifty-seven percent of the wine is from the 2009 vintage, 43% is from 2008. The goal is to make a dry, light, fresh, everyday wine and each vintage varies slightly from the preceding ones but all have met what Chris Howell’s goal. No oaky fruit bomb here but attractive cherry, currant, cassis, and raspberry aromas accented with some smoky oak. All repeat as flavors laced with nice firm tannin and good acidity and finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will pair well with a wide range of foods. Very Tasty.
 
The 2008 Cain Concept—The Benchland, Napa Valley, $60, 14.6% alc., is made with purchased fruit from benchland vineyards in the Napa Valley. The blend is 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, and 9% Petit Verdot. As is typical of many 2008 Napa wines, this release is readily approachable now but well enough balanced to age gracefully with its nose of violets, dark cherry, blackberry, smoke, vanilla, and cedar. Round, clear, light bodied flavors of the same with fine tannin and nice acidity finish long and broad with the addition of spice at the sides. Tasty.
 
The 2008 Cain Five, Estate, Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley, $125, 14.2% alc., is 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 6% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot. Elegant and finely structured from the nose through its long, broad finish, it has a restrained nose of candied grapefruit peel, cherry, blackberry, leather, cassis, and herb that repeats as flavors with added spice at the sides, supple tannins, and good acidity. Complex and still evolving it need more time to develop, open, and show well. Give it another five years or so. Very Good.
 
After you leave Cain and enjoy the leisurely drive back to Spring Mountain Road, turn left and head up the mountain to
 
 
 
Robert Keenan Winery
 
 
 
The 2011 Chardonnay, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $31, 13.9% alc., was fermented and aged in French and American oak and was aged sur lie with bâtonnage for seven months in the same barrels. Restrained aromas of pear, green apple, and lemon repeat as flavors with the additions of some peach and toasty oak before a medium-broad, somewhat truncated finish. Well put together.
 
The 2009 Merlot, Napa Valley, $36, 14.8% alc., is a blend of 77% Estate and 23% Carneros Merlot. Aged in 33% new French and American oak for eighteen months, it has a nose of blackberry, black cherry, cassis, and coffee. Medium bodied flavors of the same are accented with fine tannin and nice acidity before a finish that adds spice and smoky oak. It is a straight forward, well balanced, structured, and integrated Merlot. Tasty.
 
In contrast, the 2009 Merlot, Mailbox Vineyard, Estate, Reserve, Spring Mountain District, $64, 350 cases, has a lush nose of chocolate enrobed cherry, currant, cassis, blackberries, and hints of licorice and mint. All repeat as flavors with the addition of black pepper at the sides, a touch of bell pepper, fine tannin, and nice acidity. All continue through the medium-broad, medium long finish. Well structured, integrated, and balanced. Very Tasty.
 
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $49, 14.8% alc., has a nose of blackberry, licorice, cedar, currant, and smoke. The palace adds nice acidity and light tannin and everything carries though the medium-broad, medium-long finish. A well crafted, medium bodied Cabernet.
 
The 2009 Syrah, [81% Coombsville, 19% Atlas Peak], Napa Valley, $38, 14.3% alc., 395 cases, was aged in French and American oak for seventeen months. Aromas of black cherry, blackberry, leather, and floral introduce bright, juicy, forward flavors of the same with light, fine tannin and nice acidity before a long, broad finish. It is fairly light bodied but should gain weight, mature, and better integrate the tannin with another two years or so in the bottle. Well put together. Tasty.
 
 
 
From Robert Keenan, it is only a short drive farther up the mountain to the most idiosyncratic of Spring Mountain’s vintners.
 
 
 
Philip Togni Vineyard
 
 
 
Philip Togni makes two Cabernets Sauvignon and small amount of Red Hamburg/Black Muscat. There is no sign for the winery, only an address on a post and the entrance is through a locked gate. When you make an appointment (it will probably for 3 pm or later), you will be given the combination. Don’t forget to take it with you and remember to relock the gate after you enter and when you leave.
 
Philip has made the wines (first release 1983) and, as with other winemakers with long experience with the same vineyards, his wines have continued to evolve while maintain a consistent style. More recently his daughter Lisa him in making the wines. Philip received his winemaking training at Chateau Lascombes in Margaux and Lisa at Chateau Leoville Barton in St. Julien. The front of the house is run by Philip’s wife, Birgitta who will take you though the winery and, if you are fortunate and have the time, either she or Philip will give you a tour of the vineyards.
 
The 2012 season was generous and Togni will release about 1900 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon from his estate vineyards. (In 2010 and 2011 there were only 1400 cases.) About 30% of the wine is exported to Canada, Germany, Switzerland, England, and Asia (mostly Thailand). Otherwise distribution is limited though there is an order form on the website. Better still, if you want some, get on the mailing list because the Cabernet is often sold out even before it is released.
 
The Cabernet is aged in new French oak and the final blend contains 10-15% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Alcohol is less than 14% and the wines the 2010 Cabernet and Tambark Hill (a second label or sort of declassified wine from the Togni Cabernet) is sold out even though it has not yet been released but notes follow to give an idea of what you can expect.
 
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, Napa Valley, $95, shows cherry, black raspberry, currant, smoky oak, leather, earth, and blueberry on the nose. All repeat as flavors accented with very fine, smooth tannin and good acidity and carry through the long, medium-broad finish. While you could drink this wine on release, that would be a waste. It needs at least another eight years in the bottle to develop and open and should drink well for a decade or more after that. Very Good.
 
The 2010 Tambark Hill, Estate, [Spring Mountain District], Napa Valley, $40, is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of dark cherry, black raspberry, currant, boysenberry, and smoky oak carry all the way through to the end of the medium-broad, medium-long finish. The wine has nice tannin and acidity and is well put together. Good.
 
The 2005 Ca’ Togni, Estate, [Spring Mountain District], Napa Valley, $50/375 ml., 14% alc., is Black Muscat with 23% residual sugar. Chocolate, blackberry pie, honey, apricot, and peach on the nose lead to nicely bright flavors of the same that finish long and medium-broad. The wine is sweet but the acidity keeps everything in balance and it is not cloying. Rather, it is delicious. Very Good.
 
 
 
Almost across from Philip Togni is
 
 
 
Terra Valentine
 
 
 
Terra Valentine where you enter its imposing structure on the ‘second’ floor—the winery is below—and proceed to the tasting room from which you will have a lovely view down the valley. Terra Valentine makes over one dozen different wines but all except the Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon are available only direct from the winery. Fortunately, the winery will be happy to send you some if you contact it but it has several wines that are available only to members of its wine club. Thus, after you have tried the wines, you can decide whether you wish to join the club or only purchase the wines you find especially tasty. Notes on five of its current releases follow.
 
The 2011 Riesling, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $36, 14.1% alc., 300 cases, was aged for about sixteen months in neutral French oak puncheons. Aromas of peach, unripe pineapple, lemon, guava, and a mineral note introduce dry, crisp flavors of grapefruit, lime, lime peel, and a touch of spice before a long, medium-broad finish. This is the third vintage of this wine and it is straight forward and still a work in progress. Well put together. Tasty.
 
The 2009 Cabernet Franc, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $55, 14.9% alc., 300 cases, spent eighteen months in French oak, 50% new. A nose of cherry, boysenberry, violets, and notes of pepper, smoke, and earth precede flavors of the same with a bit more pepper showing and laced with light, fine tannin and moderate acidity. It finishes medium-broad and somewhat truncated. Well balanced, structured, and integrated and with the earthy note that is found in many Spring Mountain wines.
 
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yverdon Vineyard, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $65, 14.9% alc., 500 cases, was matured in 45% new French oak for twenty-two months and the final blend contains 1% Merlot. Forward, ripe aromas of cherry, blackberry, dark chocolate, fig, licorice, and smoke lead to smooth, round flavors with the cherry especially bright and everything accented with fine tannin and nice acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish which shows some alcohol at the end. Light bodied, it will benefit from several years in the bottle to develop and that should also cover the alcohol note. Well put together.
 
In contrast, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Wurtele Vineyard, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $65, 14.9% alc., 500 cases, was aged for twenty-two months in French oak, 50% new. It opens with smoke, black cherry, blackberry, cocoa, and sweet fig. Flavors of blackberry, smoky oak, dark cherry, and fig have a hint of sweetness, moderate acidity, and fine, tooth coating tannin. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long. The wine is well structured and balanced for long term aging and more time in the bottle will enhance the body and moderate the tannin. Tasty.
 
The 2008 Marriage, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $80, 14.9% alc., 400 cases, is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Merlot. A soft, restrained nose of cocoa, cherry, blackberry, currant, and smoky oak introduces round, soft flavors of the same with more prominent oak, gripy tannins, and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, somewhat truncated finish. The wine has slight bitterness from the oak and is well balanced, structured, and integrated.
 
 
 
Next up the hill and with a new entrance driveway that is even paved is
 
 
 
Guilliams Vineyards
 
 
 
John and Shawn Guilliams moved to their Spring Mountain abode in 1978 and planted their approximately seven acre vineyard the next year. It is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc and their Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of the three. That, along with John’s belief that what he makes should reflect first the vineyard and then his skillful winemaking, makes the Guilliams wines more strongly “Spring Mountain” than many others.
 
Located under the Guilliams’ house, the winery is small and low tech. It is a treat to see a winery that reflects how many looked and operated in the past. This does not mean that the quality is old fashioned or rustic but rather it reveals that high quality wine does not demand fancy equipment or a showplace winery. It also means that Shawn will host your visit and if the weather is warm you can taste just outside the winery door. If it is cold, a table just inside is as posh as it will get.
 
Remember that because this is basically a two person operation, you definitely need to make an appointment. At present the winery does not have its own website. You can schedule a visit by calling 707.963.9059 or by email: shawn@guilliams.com.
 
The wines are all matured in French oak, small production, modestly priced, and not as widely distributed as they deserve. All of the current releases reflect the earthiness characteristic of Spring Mountain; in fact, they are earthier than many others. About 50% of the production is sold direct from the winery. Get on the list.
 
The 2007 Merlot, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $40, 130 cases, 14.3% alc., contains 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. A bouquet of earth, blackberry, boysenberry, oak, cherry, smoke, chocolate, and vanilla introduce medium bodied flavors of the same shot through with nice acidity and fine, dry tannin. Everything carries through the medium-broad, somewhat truncated finish. There are initial hints of sweetness that become pure fruit in this well balanced, structured, and integrated Merlot.
 
Cabernet Franc is becoming more popular as a single variety wine throughout the Napa Valley with more wineries seeming to produce it every year. Styles vary widely so if you like or think you might like Cabernet Franc; make sure to try them whenever possible. Guilliams’ 2009 Cabernet Franc, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $45, 160 cases, 14.3% alc., opens with earth, chocolate, cherry, plum, smoky oak, and leather. Bright, lively flavors of the same with just a touch of well integrated oak, fine, smooth tannin, and good acidity finish medium-broad and medium-long with the addition of spice at the front. Well done. Very Tasty.
 
The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $45, 14.3% alc., has a well developed, inviting nose of earth, cherry, currant, blackberry, unsweetened chocolate, sweet leather, and smoky oak. The palate adds peppery spice at the front and sides and is laced with very fine, smooth tannin and lively acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Overall, the wine is lively, juicy, and medium-bodied with a nice roundness. Definitely food friendly, drinkable now or keep it for another five years or so to develop even more depth. Good.
 
The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $70, 160 cases, 14.3% alc., contains 6% Cabernet Franc. Rather than a blend of grapes from throughout the vineyard with its different exposures and soils, the Reserve utilizes about one-half of the fruit from two acres that John feels are the best of the harvest. He believes that the wine shows everything the vineyard has to offer from the vintage. A bouquet with nice ripeness, earth, blackberry, cherry, cedar, tobacco, and dark couverture chocolate introduces very smooth and round, medium-bodied flavors shot through with very good acidity and very fine tannin. Everything carries through the medium-broad, medium-long finish. The wine has excellent balance and integration and needs another three to five years in the bottle to develop and show at its best. Very Good.
 
 
When you leave Guilliams, turn left and proceed to Schweiger on the right.
 
 
 
Schweiger Vineyards
 
 
 
Next up the hill (left out of Guilliams’ driveway) is Schweiger. Though the property had been planted in the 1870s by the time Fred Schweiger’s parents purchased fifty-three acres in 1961 there was no evidence of those plantings. Fred purchased an additional eight acres in 1961 and began clearing the property for a vineyard toward the end of the 1970s. During that process, redwood stakes for grape vines from the original plantings were discovered. The first of the new vines were planted in 1981 and the first harvest was 1983 but the grapes were sold to others until Schweiger Vineyards was bonded and the first wines under their eponymous label were released from that vintage.
 
In 1999 the Schweigers’ son, Andrew, returned to the fold as the full time winemaker and production has gradually increased to about 6000 cases annually. When I first visited, the tasting bar was in the basement. Now there is a proper tasting room from the balcony of which is a view over the vineyards. But you still must make an appointment because the staff is not large and the parking area is even smaller and you will need to stop at the gate and push the button for the tasting room.
 
The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Uboldi Vineyards, Sonoma Valley, $25, 14.8% alc., 564 cases, spent nine months in neutral French oak. It was sur lie for the first six months and was then racked and put back in barrel for an additional three months of aging. The final blend contains 5% Sauvignon Musqué clone. Aromas of grass, green apple, grapefruit, and a hint of melon repeat as flavors with an added touch of peach and an initial creamy texture before the acid brightens everything. It finishes long and broad at the back. There is some astringency and the wine is well balanced, structured, and integrated.
 
The 2009 Cabernet Franc, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $75, 13.9% alc., 300 cases, contains 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. It opens with cherry, blackberry, currant, spice, leather, smoke, and a hint of greenness. The palate shows more smoke and adds oak, fine tannin, and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish with very persistent smoky oak. This is Schweiger’s first Cabernet Franc release and if you like lots of smoke in your Franc, try this one. It will be interesting to see if this style continues in future vintages.
 
The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, spring Mountain District, $58, 15.1% alc., spent thirty-two months in French oak, 45% new. A nose of dark cherry, black tea with a touch of bergamot, chocolate, plum, and some smoky oak introduces nicely bright, medium-bodied flavors of the same with an added touch of spice and fine tannin. The very long finish broadens at the back and shows persistent smoky oak. Easily drinkable now, it will benefit from another three years in the bottle. Well put together. Very Tasty.
 
The 2007 Dedication, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $85, 15.1% alc., 557 cases, is a blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Malbec. The varieties were aged separately in French oak, 75% new, for the first two years and then blended and returned to barrel for an additional eight months. After bottling, the wine was held for two years before release. Plum, cherry, blackberry, currant, dark chocolate, a mineral note, and hints of earth and oak introduce smooth, juicy, medium bodied flavors of the same laced with fine tannin and moderate acidity. The medium-broad, somewhat truncated finish adds sharp spice at the front and some alcohol at the end. A very ripe style, it is nicely balanced and integrated and will benefit from more time in the bottle. Good.
 
 
 
When you leave Schweiger, turn right and go downhill to a driveway on the right with multiple addresses; six are for wineries. While the driveway is initially broad, it narrows to one lane. Drive slowly, pay attention to the signs and addresses and on the left you will find
 
 
 
Sherwin Family Vineyards
 
 
 
Steve and Linda Sherwin purchased this thirty acre property on top of Spring Mountain in 1996. Like the neighboring Schweiger property, it had been planted to grapes in the 1880s but went out of production and most of the vineyards disappeared when Prohibition became the rule. However, there were still some Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc vines intermixed on three acres of the property. Steve cleared more land and planted an additional thirteen acres to the same varieties and built a cleverly designed gravity flow winery under the house. The tasting room is in the house or, if the weather is favorable, outside on the extensive and comfortable patio overlooking the ‘lake’ and vineyards.
 
Production is still small and you will probably find Linda hosting your tasting so remember to call ahead (707.963.1154) or contact the winery by email: info@sherwinfamilyvineyards.com.
 
The 2010 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, $40, 12.5% alc., 200 cases, spent eleven months in French oak, 50% new, 50% neutral. Soft aromas of sweet lemon, pear, and apple continue as flavors with oak underneath, moderate acidity, and a touch of astringency before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will be popular.
 
The nv Cellar Scraps, 6 Platinum Reserve, Spring Mountain District, $55, 15.1% alc., 300 cases, is a blend based upon the Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. The blend changes every year. The current release is about 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Syrah. Aromas of smoky cherry, raspberry, sweet cranberry and blackberry introduce bright, lively flavors of the same plus an added earthy note and fine tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long with a persistent smoky note and a touch of alcohol. Intriguing and nicely put together. The Syrah is from the Hamilton Vineyard in Dry Creek Valley.
 
The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, Spring Mountain District, $90, 15.1% alc., was aged in new French oak for twenty-two months. It is very ripe and opens with cherry, blackberry, cassis, chocolate syrup, boysenberry, and smoky oak. All repeat as fairly rich flavors with the additions of spice, nice acidity, and fine tannin before a medium-broad and medium-long. The fruit covers the alcohol and keeps the wine from being hot. Well put together. Good.
 
The 2007 Syrah, [Hamilton Vineyard], Dry Creek Valley, $70, 15.4% alc., was aged in French oak, 50% new. A big, very ripe nose of chocolate fudge, cherry, baked blackberry, spice, and smoky oak. Round, smooth flavors of the same with peppery spice at the sides are laced with a significant amount of soft tannin and moderate acidity. The long finish broadens at the back. Well done in a big, ripe style.
 
 
 
When you leave Sherwin Family, turn left and go to the end of the drive to and press the button to call the tasting room to be let in.
 
 
 
Barnett Vineyards
 
 
 
Barnett’s first vintage was one hundred cases in 1989. It now produces about 6,000 cases annually with two Cabernets Sauvignon and Petit Verdot coming from its Spring Mountain vineyards and another Cabernet Sauvignon and other varieties made with purchased grapes.
The wines are elegant and refined and made in small quantities. Here are notes on five of the current releases.
 
The 2011 Chardonnay, Sangiacomo Vineyard, Carneros, $35, 14.1% alc., 855 cases. Aged in French oak, 20% new, for eleven months opens with oar, pear, apple, and a floral note. The fruit is lush on the palate with nice acidity and light oak and a bit of tannin. The finish is long and medium-broad. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
 
The 2011 Pinot Noir, Tina Marie Vineyard, Green Valley, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, $35, 13.5% alc., 660 cases, was aged in 40% new French oak for eleven months. Aromas of cherry, cranberry, strawberry, and a touch of oak repeat as flavors accented with fine tannin and nice acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well integrated, balanced, and structured. Very Tasty.
 
In contrast, the 2011 Pinot Noir, Savoy Vineyard, Anderson Valley, $55, 13.5% alc., 530 cases, has an almost explosive nose of ripe cherry and strawberry with oak floating through. On the palate, the same fruit is juicy with lovely mouth feel, very light tannin and excellent acidity and finish long and medium-broad. Well structured, balanced, and integrated. Very Good.
 
The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District, $75, 14.2% alc., 914 cases, spent twenty-two months in French oak, 70% new. Aromas of blackberry, cassis, cherry, violets, and a hint of mineral introduce flavors of the same plus some licorice, raspberry, and vanilla laced with fine, tooth coating tannin and good acidity. Everything carries through the long, medium-broad finish. The overall impression is juicy, fresh fruit in a fairly big bodied wine with only a hint of Spring Mountain earth. Well put together, it needs several more years in the bottle to develop and show at its best. Good.
 
The 2010 Petit Verdot, Spring Mountain District, $65, 14.2% alc., 120 cases, $65, 14.2% alc., 120 cases, is inky dark with a nose of black fruit, cherry and blackberry, plus spice. Bright, spicy, juicy flavors are more red than black and are shot through with fine tannin and great acidity before a long, broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Good.
 
 
 

Howell Mountain

 
 
The road up Howell Mountain is wider and an easier drive than that up Spring Mountain. The AVA covers more area and there are many more wineries to visit. At the same time, rather than the wineries all off either side of any single road, most are on side roads and rather than a sign out front there may only be an address on a post or mail box. It much easier to miss a turn or drive past an entrance or find yourself turned around with no idea of exactly where you are. You can’t really get lost but good map or GPS unit will help. Still, when you make an appointment, you may wish to ask that the winery send you directions. But just because you may need to search a bit harder to reach a particular winery; a visit to the Howell Mountain wineries is well worth the time and effort.
 
There are number of wineries on the roads that spread out in various directions from the small town of Angwin, population just over 3000, where if you missed lunch you can find something to eat. In contrast to Spring Mountain, on Howell Mountain there are places to stay, a local school district, and even Pacific Union College, a small liberal arts school affiliated with the Seventh-Day Adventist Church. And if you are low on fuel, there are gas stations where you can also ask for directions if you forgot your map.
 
Rather than the distinct earthy character of Spring Mountain wines, Howell Mountain wines tend to be bigger, firmer, and often riper and you will find varieties like Zinfandel that are not common on Spring Mountain. Also, many of the wineries produce some or even most of their wines from vineyards that are not on the mountain. This gives you the opportunity to compare the differences they achieve with fruit from the valley and fruit from the mountain.
 
Most of the wineries are small, many don’t have formal tasting rooms, and an appointment is almost always necessary. It is even necessary for some of the larger ones. Also, on Howell Mountain you will find wineries that have new facilities where the architecture rivals that of some of the more distinctive wineries on the valley floor.
 
Notes on a few of the Howell Mountain vintners follow, basically starting at the top of the mountain and going downhill.
 
 
 
Black Sears
 
 
 
Almost at the end of Summit Lake Road is Black Sears with a winery in one building, an office next door, and a residence. You will need an appointment even to insure that someone is available to host your visit at this small operation. There is no “tasting room,” just go to the office.
 
Jerre Sears and Joyce Black purchased the property in 1979 and married there in 1981. Until 1997 they sold the grapes to others before beginning to make a few hundred cases under their own label. They have now basically turned over operation of the winery to their daughter Ashley and her husband Chris but the winery is still a family operation.
 
The fruit is organically grown and the wines are worth the effort to find if you like a big, ripe style. If you can’t find them, contact the winery: info@blacksears.com.
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Howell Mountain, $50, 16.1% alc., 380 cases, is very ripe with sweet aromas of black cherry, blackberry, chocolate, plum, and smoke. Flavors of the same plus anise are big and ripe with fine, firm tannin and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long, nicely persistent finish. This is a fruit bomb style of Zinfandel where the fruit covers the alcohol and prevents the wine from being hot. Drink it now for that fruit. Very Tasty.
 
 
 
 
When you leave Black Sears, turn left and go back down the road to
 
 
 
 
Summit Lake Vineyards
 
 
 
On your way to Black Sears you passed an even smaller winery. The vineyards were planted about forty years ago by Robert Brakesman though there were already eight acres of pre-prohibition Zinfandel along with fruit trees on the property when he purchased it in 1971. It had been abandoned for years and needed extensive rehabilitation but the barn and orchard are still there and the wines are well made and distinctive.
 
The first commercial release was the 1978 Zinfandel. It won a double gold at the California State Fair. Bob had obviously learned how to make top notch wine. He now shares farming duties with his son and daughter and the wines each carry the name of a grandchild.
 
When you visit, Heather will probably host your tasting at the dining room table because this is a relaxed, friendly place making small quantities highly desirable, bargain priced wines. But remember, an appointment is a must.
 
The 2008 Zinfandel, Howell Mountain, $30, 14.8% alc., 270 cases, spent 24-30 months in mostly American but with a small amount of French oak. It is nicely ripe with raspberry, cherry, briar, and a touch of oak on the nose which explodes from the glass. Round, firm flavors of the same plus smoke, leather, and a bit more oak are laced with fine, round tannins and good acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it drinks nicely now but will benefit from another three years in the bottle. Good.
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Emily Kestrel, Howell Mountain, $60, 14.9% alc., 280 cases, spent 24-30 months in mostly French oak, 20-30% new. Aromas of blackberry, black cherry, boysenberry, and touches of chocolate and smoky oak introduce rich, nicely dense flavors of the same with very fine, tooth coating tannin and good acidity. The finish is long and medium-broad. This is a big mountain fruit Cab’ that is well put together and will benefit from another three to five years of bottle age. Good.
 
The 2003 Clair Riley’s Private Reserve Zinfandel Port, Howell Mountain, $45/375 ml., 19.9% alc., 220 cases, was fortified with neutral spirits while the wine was still in contact with the skins. It has only 7% residual sugar and that is well balanced with acidity so the wine is not cloying. A bouquet of chocolate, orange marmalade and prune repeats as flavors with the addition of apricot, light, fine tannin, and good acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish adds lots of spice. Nicely structured, integrated, and balanced, it should be exceptionally popular. Good.
 
 
 
When you leave Summit Lake, turn left, go to the end of Summit Lake Road, and turn right on White Cottage Road and drive until you get to
 
 
 
Dunn Vineyards
 
 
 
Randy Dunn is one of the Howell Mountain pioneers. He and Lori purchased their original fourteen acres in 1978. Five of those acres were planted to vines. The first release was in 1981—100% Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1982, Dunn added a Napa Valley Cabernet Still later additional property was purchased with the addition of forty acres in 1991 but production remains small and the wines are quite distinctive. Currently, the winery releases about 1500 cases of the Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and about 2500 cases of the Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon annually. If you appreciate great Cabernet Sauvignon, you should know these wines. Treat yourself and if you can’t make it to the winery and can’t find the wines locally, get on the mailing list. Though the list currently has more names than there are wines available, the wines are sold in a “first come first serve basis” so remember to order as soon as possible when you receive the annual mailing.
 
Dunn wines have great structure and balance and will age beautifully for years, sometimes for decades. While the current releases do not need as much time as those from the 1980s and have somewhat higher alcohol levels, they still mirror Dunn’s philosophy of low alcohol, age worthy wines. They all spend thirty months in French oak, 85% new.
 
Notes on some of the wines that are currently available follow.
 
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $80, 13.8% alc., opens dark and dense with blackberry, black cherry, currant, chocolate, and light, smoky oak. The same repeat as flavors with an added note of earth and laced with supple tannins and good acidity and finish long and medium-broad. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it is easily drinkable now, it will be even better with another eight years in the bottle. Very Good. (The Napa Valley designation may be somewhat misleading as the Napa Valley Cab’ contains no more that 15% valley floor fruit. The balance is from Howell Mountain. Still, that 15% yields wines with softer tannins that are more approachable sooner than the Howell Mountain Cab’.)
 
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, $102, 13.8% alc., is still closed but has a bouquet of blackberry, cassis, currant, and black cherry accented with a touch of oak before flavors of the same with the additions of cocoa, fine tannin, and good acidity. The long, medium-broad finish adds spice at the front. This is a big, balanced wine with great depth that needs another decade to open, develop, and begin to show at its best. Well structured, integrated, and balanced. Very Good to Excellent.
 
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, $90, 13.9% alc., is very tight. A nose of floral, cherry, currant, black raspberry, boysenberry, and subtle cedar accent introduces flavors of the same plus cocoa, coffee, fine tannin, and good acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. This is a big, intense, dark fruited wine and while you can drink it now, it would be a waste. It is very firmly structured and nowhere near ready to reveal it true potential. Give it another ten to fifteen years. The wait will be worth it. Excellent.
 
 
 
From Dunn turn right and continue down White Cottage Road until it makes an S turn and intersects with Friesen Drive on the right. This is a bit tricky because Friesen does not appear to be a street. There is a black gate across the street. Just pull up and it will open. Then proceed along this narrow street until you pass the water company and O’Shaughnessy. The next drive will be
 
 
 
Cimarossa
 
 
 
Cimarossa is a relatively new venture begun in the late 1990s by Dino Dina and his wife Corry Dekker who both work in biomedical fields in the Stanford area. This “red hilltop” winery produces four Cabernets Sauvignon and olive oil from estate fruit. If you make an appointment and go, you will get a tour of the vineyards in Cimarossa’s red (of course) ATV so you can get a greater appreciation of the property and get to the tasting room at the top of the property without a long uphill walk.
 
Cimarossa sells 90% of its wine direct from the winery so if you are interested in this small, up and coming vintner, get on the mailing list. It releases all of its wines in both 750 ml., and 1.5 L., bottles. It also produces extra virgin olive oil.
 
The first harvest was in 2004. The 2005 Riva di Ponente [Vineyard], Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, $90, 14.9% alc., 150 cases, was not made by the Mia Klein, the current winemaker. What it tasted like upon release, I don’t know but the fruit is cherry, blackberry, chocolate, and plum is light bodied and fading now. That should not occur so quickly with Klein’s wines though only time will tell.
 
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rian Vineyard, Howell Mountain, $85, 14.3% alc., 138 cases, is made from two vineyard blocks divided by a creek that is lined with olive trees. Still quite closed, it shows cherry, blueberry, blackberry, leather, chocolate, licorice, and hints of mint and tobacco on the nose. All repeat with the additions of smoke, fine, dry tannin, and good acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Fairly light bodied at present, it is going to take time to develop and open and will need at least five more years in the bottle to begin to show well. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good.
 
Quite different is the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Riva di Ponte Vineyard, Howell Mountain, $85, 15.3% alc., 137 cases. Quite ripe aromas of soft chocolate, cherry, blueberry, blackberry and a touch of fennel introduce fairly light bodied flavors of the same balanced on the alcohol and laced with fine, light, smooth tannins and moderate acidity. The broad, medium-long finish adds pepper. Well put together.
 
 
 
When you leave Cimarossa go back the way you came. When you go through the electric gate go straight until you get to Liparita Ave. Turn right and head to Neal.
 
 
 
 
Neal Family Vineyards
 
 
 
The Neal family has been managing vineyards throughout the Napa Valley since 1968. A winery was added to the family’s portfolio in the 1990s and its first release was a 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon from a vineyard it owned in Rutherford. It now produces wines from vineyards located throughout the valley and from its Howell Mountain property. All of its vineyards are certified organic.
 
Winemaking is under the direction of Gove Celio, a fifth generation Californian, who has been working at various wineries in both the Sonoma Valley and on Howell Mountain since 1981. He came to Neal after serving as viticulturist and then winemaker at Liparita.
 
The 2010 Zinfandel, Rutherford Dust Vineyards, Rutherford, $24, 14.7% alc., spent thirteen months in Hungarian oak, 40% new. Aromas of bramble, black raspberry, black cherry, coffee, and cocoa repeat as round, ripe fruit laced with fine tannin and moderate acidity and with the addition of smoky oak. The medium-broad, medium-long finish adds pepper at the sides. Firmly structured, well balanced, and integrated. Tasty.
 
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $48, 14.4% alc., was aged in 81% new French oak for twenty-three months. Eighty-four percent of the fruit came from Howell Mountain, the balance from Atlas Peak, Rutherford, and Mt. Veeder. This is a big, powerful mountain fruit Cabernet only slightly moderated by the Rutherford fruit. It has developed a nice bouquet of blackberry, cassis, black cherry, chocolate, blueberry, smoky oak, and a touch of earth. Medium bodied but intense flavors of the same are shot through with fine, gripy tannin and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. You can drink it now but it will benefit from more time in the bottle. Try to hold off for another three years. Well structured, integrated, and balanced.
 
The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Dust Vineyard, Napa Valley, $75, 14.7% alc., 259 cases, was matured in new French oak for twenty-four months. This is the third release of this wine and it shows lovely blackberry, cherry, currant, plum, blueberry, black raspberry, unsweetened chocolate, and smoky oak aromas tat repeat on the palate accented with very fine tannin and nice acidity. The finish is long, medium-broad, and persistent. Well integrated, balanced, and structured, it is drinking well now but should be even nicer with more time in the bottle. Good.
 
In contrast, the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Fifteen-Forty, Napa Valley, $75, 15% alc., 400 cases, is from a vineyard on the east flank of Howell Mountain but at 1,365 feet elevation it is just below the 1400’ boundary for the Howell Mountain AVA. The wine was aged in new French oak for twenty-eight months and opens with cedar, cigar box, leather, blackberry, black cherry, cassis, and smoke on the nose. All repeat as flavors with the addition of unsweetened chocolate and everything balanced on fine, tooth coating tannin and moderate acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long with persistent blackberry and smoky oak. Overall, it is a wine with dense fruit and good balance and structure. (Interestingly, on Howell Mountain vineyards that face northeast ripen about thirty days before vineyards with other exposures.)
 
The 2008 Petite Syrah, Rutherford Dust Vineyard, Rutherford, $35, 15.5% alc., 450 cases,
was aged for twenty-five months in French oak, 70% new. This is a big, intense Petite from vines planted in 1906. It introduces itself with jammy fruit: black raspberry, boysenberry, chocolate, cocoa, and licorice on the nose. Smooth flavors of the same but with more prominent licorice are laced with significant tannin and nice acidity before a long finish that broadens at the back. It is lighter bodied than the nose might suggest and the alcohol that lightens it is well covered by the fruit. Nicely put together.
 
 
 
From Neal, go back to S. White Cottage Ave. and turn right and drive until you reach
 
 
 
Ladera Vineyards
 
 
 
Grapes were first planted in 1877 on what is now the Ladera property. The original owners Jean Brun and Jean V. Chaix who had emigrated from France named the vineyard Nouveau Medoc. They built the winery building in 1886 and its outer walls now enclose a completely new interior that preserves the original gravity flow design with the grapes entering on the top floor and the wine made and barreled on the first floor.
 
The original winery with its thirty-inch thick stone walls continued to operate until Prohibition “Noble Experiment” forced it to close. It remained closed through the 1980s. The current owners, Pat and Anne Stotesbery who ran a cow-calf operation in Montana, purchased the property in 1996 and gutted the interior of the winery because it had deteriorated and could not serve as modern facility. They then rebuilt it while leave the interior intact.
 
New Zealand native Jade Barrett is the winemaker and when not seeing to his responsibilities as husband and duties as a member of the Santa Rosa Rugby Club, he makes Ladera’s wines. Though best known for its Cabernet Sauvignon, Ladera also produces a blend of Bordeaux varietals and a Sauvignon Blanc, all from estate fruit.
 
In addition to the winery, the entire Ladera property covers 185 acres of which eighty-one are planted to vineyards. There are also extensive gardens and Ladera offers both the opportunity to taste its wines and to tour the property, both by appointment only.
 
Seventy-eight percent of the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Howell Mountain, $25, 13.5% alc., 946 cases, was fermented in French oak (10% new, 12% neutral); the balance was made in stainless steel. The wine was aged sur lie with bâtonnagefor six months. Aromas of floral, lemon, green apple, lime peel, and grass continue as flavors and finish medium-broad and somewhat truncated. Nicely juicy and well put together.
 
The 2008 High Plateau Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, $75, 14.1% alc., is a blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot. Cherry, blackberry, chocolate, cassis, leather, and smoky oak on the nose introduce bright, juicy, fairly light bodied flavors of the same accented with fine tannin and nice acidity before a long, broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
 
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, $75, 14.1% alc., spent twenty-two months in French oak. A big, rich, deep nose of blackberry, black cherry, currant, cassis, boysenberry, and a note of smoky oak repeats as flavors laced with fine, smooth tannin and nice acidity. Everything carries through the long, very broad finish where some spice appears. Well integrated, balanced, and structured, it is an enjoyable drink now but will be even better if you can wait another few years. Very Good.
 
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, $100, 14.8% alc., spent twenty-one months in French oak, 49% new, has be rereleased. It has a big, rich bouquet of blackberry, chocolate, cherry, blueberry, and plum. The palate adds soft spice, good acidity, and fine tannin. The nicely dense, medium-broad, medium-long finish adds licorice. It is drinking well now and should continue to do so for several more years.
 
 
 
From Ladera proceed down S.White Cottage until it intersects with Howell Mountain Road and turn left. Cade will be a short distance up the hill on your left.
 
 
 
 
Cade Winery
 
 
 
Cade is part of the PlumpJack group that includes three wineries: PlumpJack, Cade, and Odette Estate. Odette in a new addition. PlumpJack purchased the Steltzner winery building, production facility and 49 acres of vineyard property. It is currently being renovated but the tasting room is open by appointment. But back to Cade.
 
The winery was founded in 2005 and occupies and outstanding architectural complex designed by Juan Carlos Fernandez working with Anthony Biagi who was then the winemaker. The facility is LEED certified and even if you don’t like wine, it is worth visiting for the design and the spectacular view. Just try to make your appointment for a clear day or you may see nothing but fog. If you enjoy well crafted wines, you can decide whether they, the architecture or the views are the highlight.
 
Being part of the PlumpJack group means that it has access to fruit from Howell Mountain and from a number of vineyards in diverse areas of Napa Valley. Thus, while the winery is located on Howell Mountain, it produces wines from other areas all in a PlumpJack style.
 
The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Estate, Oakville,$44, 14.2% alc., 507 cases, contains 13% Viognier and 10% Semillon. It was fermented in a combination of new and once used French oak and concrete tanks and was aged sur lie with bâtonnage for eleven months in French oak, 30% new. Aromas of oak, grapefruit, pineapple, sweet apple, and floral introduce round textured flavors of the same plus guava and some lime peel but the oak has disappeared and the wine finishes long and medium-broad. Well crafted, balanced, structured, and integrated.
 
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Cade Cuvée, Napa Valley, $60, 15.2% alc., is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot, and 5% Merlot. Aged for eighteen months in French oak, 55% new, it opens with black cherry, cassis, and some oak. Smooth flavors of the same plus notes of tobacco and unsweetened chocolate are laced with tooth coating tannin and moderate acidity before a long finish that broadens at the back. Well put together and light bodied, it may gain some more body with short term aging.
 
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, $80, 15.2% alc., contains 4% Merlot, and was matured for nineteen months in 80% new French oak. Big, forward, intense, dark aromas of cherry, blackberry, clove, coffee, chocolate, blueberry, and a hint of oak introduce smooth, medium bodied flavors of the same with the oak now smoky and with added hints of vanilla and mint all shot through with lots of fine tannin and fresh acidity. It finishes long and broad at the back. Medium bodied and well balanced, integrated, and structured, it is perfectly crafted in the currently favored clean, very ripe, and immediately approachable style. Good.
 
 
 
From Cade go downhill until you get to
 
 
 
Burgess Cellars
 
 
 
Tom Burgess came to the Napa Valley in 1972 and purchased a small mountain side winery that had been established in the 1870s but, like many, had succumbed to Prohibition. In 1972 there were only a couple dozen wineries in the valley. It had not yet achieved the reputation it has today but he believed in its potential and the future of the site he had chosen. This long time association with the property and others from which he sources grapes has given him insights which can only come from experience.
 
Like others, Burgess is small and you will need to make an appointment to visit this unique site. In addition to tasting, Burgess offers something most Napa wineries cannot: the chance to purchase older vintages. In fact, currently the list includes Cabernet Sauvignon for every year beginning with 1979. So if you need something special, this may be just the opportunity.
 
The 2008 Syrah, Estate, Napa Valley, $29, 14.4% alc., was aged in older French and American oak for fifteen months and the final blend contains 10% Grenache. Dark cherry, spice, boysenberry, and dark chocolate on the nose repeat as flavors with an added note of toasty oak and laced with great acidity and fine, smooth tannin. It finishes long and broad. This is a big, rich, well balanced and integrated Syrah. Good.
 
The 2008 Merlot, Triere Estate Vineyard, Napa Valley, $28, opens with cherry, blackberry, blueberry, a touch of vanilla, and smoky oak. Juicy flavors of the same are accented with fine tannin before a long, broad finish. Fairly lean with great structure and focus, it will complement many foods. Well balanced and integrated. Very Good.
 
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, Napa Valley, $38, 14.5% alc., contains 10% each of Cabernet Franc and Merlot and small amounts of Malbec and Petit Verdot. It was aged in French oak, 30% new, for eighteen months. Still closed, it shows cassis, blackberry, black cherry, blueberry, and smoky oak on the nose. All repeat as flavors with more well integrated smoke, nice acidity, and good tannin underneath. Everything carries through the long, medium-broad finish. It needs another few years to develop and drink well but should hold nicely for a decade or more. Good.
 
The winery opened a 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Vintage Selection, Estate, Napa Valley, $68, 13% alc. This wine has developed wonderfully and if you like mature Cabernet, it is a bargain. It has plum, dark cherry, anise, and an interesting strawberry note from nose through its long finish. If you have the patience, with its good acidity and well resolved tannins, it will develop even more but is certainly a delicious bottle now. From the time the 1998 wines were released it has been one of my favorite vintages. Unfortunately, some writers had praised the 1997 to almost heavenly levels and denigrated the 1998. I believed they were wrong then and still do. If you have any 1997 around, get a bottle of Burgess’ 1998 and make the comparison yourself.
 
(Just a note for Geeks: Burgess is located on Howell Mountain but is not within the Howell Mountain AVA because the winery and vineyards are lower than the 1400’ elevation that delimits the AVA.)
 
 
 
 
Cautionary Note:
 
As I noted at the beginning, there are many more excellent wineries on Howell Mountain than I have mentioned. There is no need to limit yourself to the ones I have covered. Also, especially because mountain roads are often much narrower than those in the valley and often have no shoulders but always have more curves, you need to pay more attention when driving. Additionally, if you prefer to drink the samples you are poured, please remember that after six or eight samples (especially of the higher alcohol wines) your driving ability will be adversely affected. So take more care. (Six two-ounce samples of 14.0% alcohol wine contains the same amount of alcohol as four ounces of 80 proof distilled spirits.)
]]> http://haroldbaerwine.com/2013/02/hillside-napa-spring-mountain-howell-mountain-2/feed/ 0 Hillside Napa: Spring Mountain & Howell Mountain http://haroldbaerwine.com/2013/02/hillside-napa-spring-mountain-howell-mountain/ http://haroldbaerwine.com/2013/02/hillside-napa-spring-mountain-howell-mountain/#comments Thu, 28 Feb 2013 23:35:09 +0000 harold http://haroldbaerwine.com/?p=723 http://haroldbaerwine.com/2013/02/hillside-napa-spring-mountain-howell-mountain/feed/ 0 Wine Notes: December 2012 http://haroldbaerwine.com/2012/12/wine-notes-december-2012/ http://haroldbaerwine.com/2012/12/wine-notes-december-2012/#comments Thu, 27 Dec 2012 17:54:01 +0000 harold http://haroldbaerwine.com/?p=652 Continue reading →]]>

The following notes are arranged by winery and area, state or country. Website addresses are given when available. This may be important if you cannot locate a particular wine locally because most wineries will be happy to ship you their wines if you contact them. Also, not every wine produced or in current release by any of the wineries covered here is reviewed in these notes and the websites often include more information on the wines than you will find here. (Websites are noted for domestic producers from which wines can be purchased directly.) Please remember that if you have questions you may contact us by email or telephone and we will try to answer them.

Notes on wines from California are followed by those from Europe, South America, and Australia.

 

 

Napa Valley

 

Long Meadow Ranch

 

This 650-acre property atop the Mayacamas Mountains was a working ranch before it added or re-established vineyards that had originally been planted in the 1870s. Now in addition to wine it continues the ranching operation with grass fed beef, olive oils, and fruits and vegetables. All of its crops are certified as organic.

 

Its wines are crafted to complement foods and are less dense and have lower alcohols than many others from Napa Valley.  If you can’t find them, contact the winery: www.longmeadowranch.com.

 

The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, $20, 12.5% alc., opens with nice, forward, fairly bright grass, herb, white peach, pear, and green apple before flavors dominated by grass, herb, and green apple accented with good acidity. The medium-broad, truncated, persistent finish has a bitter note.  Well put together. Tasty.

 

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, Napa Valley, $40, 13.5% alc., contains 10% merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. It was aged in French oak, 50% new, for two years and spent an additional two years in the bottle before release. A bouquet of blackberry, black cherry, cassis, black raspberry, and some smoky oak repeats as flavors with the addition of spice that begins at the front and sides and then spreads across the palate. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long with persistent spice. The wine has a moderate amount of fine tannin and good acidity and is well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.

 

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $47, 13.5% alc., is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 2% Petite Sirah. It was aged in French oak, 50% new, has a ripe, forward nose of plum, blackberry, cherry, and cocoa powder. All continue with the addition of smoky oak and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, truncated finish.

 

The 2008 Ranch House Red, Napa Valley, $29, 13.5% alc., is a blend that changes with each vintage. The ’08 has aromas of cherry, blackberry, and smoky oak before light bodied flavors of the same with more smoke and a touch of tar all laced with nice acidity and light tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. A well put together red for everyday drinking.

 

The 2007 E.J. Church, $85, 13.5% alc., 150 cases, is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and is Long Meadow’s reserve. Named after the original owner of the property, it opens with cherry, cassis, currant, raspberry, and well integrated smoky oak. Bright cherry, raspberry, currant, and cassis flavors are accented with a touch of smoky oak and laced with wonderful acidity and fine tannin. Everything carries through the long, broad finish. Easily drinkable now, it will benefit from another three years of bottle age. Good to Very Good.

 

 

Bourassa Vineyards

 

The 2010 Syrah, Rhapsody3, Proprietors Reserve, [Tulocay, Oak Knoll, and Yountville], Napa Valley, $45, 14.3% alc., 250 cases, opens with restrained cherry currant, blackberry, and white pepper on the nose. Restrained flavors of the same plus hints of earth and smoky oak finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured and integrated, it will gain depth and richness with a few more years in the bottle. Tasty.  www.bourassavineyards.com

 

 

Louis M. Martini Winery

 

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, [Alexander Valley and Dry Creek Valley, plus a small amount of Cabernet from Lake County], Sonoma County, $18, 13.4% alc., contains some Petite Sirah and was aged mostly in French oak. It has aromas of raspberry syrup, cherry, blueberry, currant, and smoke with hints of caramel and mocha. The syrup and blueberry disappear on the palate and light tannin and nice acidity are added. The long, medium-broad finish adds spice at the sides. Well put together. Tasty.  www.louismartini.com

 

 

Whitehall Lane Winery & Vineyards

 

The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, $18, % alc., contains 12% Semillon and opens with soft pear, apple, unripe pineapple, and floral notes before mouth filling flavors of the same plus lemon that finish long and broad. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.

 

The 2009 Merlot, Napa Valley, $28, % alc., is a blend of 80% Merlot, 15% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Still closed, it has flavors of cherry, currant, raspberry, light oak, some green peppercorn at the front, nice acid, and fine tannin before a long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it needs another two years in the bottle to develop and open. Good.

 

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $40, % alc., contains 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec. It immediately impresses as a “serious” Cabernet with a nose of cocoa, coffee, blackberry, currant, plum, and hints of vanilla and smoky oak. Flavors of the same lead by the blackberry and with the additions of cherry, fine tannin, and moderate acidity finish long and broad. Well structured, integrated, and balanced, it needs another two years or so in the bottle to develop, open and begin to show at its best. Good.

 

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Napa Valley, $75, contains 4% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot and is quite different. Still closed, it has inviting aromas of floral, black raspberry, blackberry, dark cherry, currant, mocha, and light smoky oak. All repeat as round flavors with good richness and the addition of a touch of leather and laced with fine, tooth coating tannin and good acidity. Everything carries through the long, broad, persistent finish. The wine has nice presence and is well integrated, structured, and balanced. It will benefit from another three years in the bottle to open and develop. Very Good.

 

www.whitehalllane.com

 

 

Marilyn Wines (by Nova Wines)

 

The 2010 Merlot, [Yountville and Oakville], Napa Valley, $30, 13.9% alc., contains 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Ripe aromas of cherry, blackberry, boysenberry, toasty oak and a hint of anise repeat with the additions of notes of cranberry and rhubarb all laced with good acidity and tooth coating tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Easily drinkable now, it will grow and smooth out with another year in the bottle. Tasty.

 

The 2010 Meritage, Napa Valley, $50, 14.5% alc., 720 cases, is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 6% each of Cabernet Franc and Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot. Jammy blackberry, raspberry, and cassis on the nose precedes flavors of the same which are ripe but not jammy and with the additions of smoky oak, cherry, cranberry, and fine tannin accented with nice acidity. The finish is medium-broad and somewhat truncated. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.

 

www.marilynwines.com

 

 

Sonoma County

 

Pedroncelli

 

The 2011 Chardonnay, Vintage Selection, Dry Creek Valley, $13, 14.2% alc., has inviting aromas of apple, pear, lemon, Asian pear, and light toast. Mouth filling, juicy flavors of the same plus a touch of oak are fresh and accented with good acidity before a long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good.  

The 2011 Dry Rosé of Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, $11, 13.5%% alc., 998 cases, was made in stainless steel has an attractive nose of cherry and strawberry-raspberry before bright, zippy flavors of the same plus some cinnamon and pepper all shot through with nice acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well structured, integrated, and balanced. Very Tasty. The 2011 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, $20, 13.5% alc., was aged in French oak, 25% new, has a very light nose of cherry and floral with hints of blackberry and smoky. Juicy flavors of the same are light bodied and accented with moderate acidity and very light tannin and finish medium-broad and medium-long. Straight forward and well put together.

 

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Three Vineyards, $17, 14.3% alc., spent fourteen months in American and French oak barrels. The final blend is 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Merlot. Restrained, inviting aromas of cherry, raspberry, currant, blackberry, and chocolate introduce flavors of the same fruit laced with good acidity and fine tannin plus pepper across the front before a long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will benefit from another year in the bottle to open and develop. Good.

 

The 2009 Petite Sirah, Family Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, $16, 14.4% alc., 900 cases, is 84% Petite Sirah and 16% Syrah, and was matured for seventeen months in American oak. Still closed, it has quite ripe aromas of black cherry, vanilla, blackberry, and white pepper before flavors of the same fruit which is ripe but not sweet, tooth coating tannin, and moderate acidity. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together. Tasty.

 

www.pedroncelli.com

 

 

Jacuzzi Family Vineyards

 

The 2010 Barbera, Mendocino County, $16, 14.5% alc., was matured in 34% new French oak for twelve months. Rich, ripe aromas of dark cherry, blackberry, smoky oak, and vanilla repeat as flavors laced with moderate acidity and a hint of tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Drink this well put together, new world Barbera now to appreciate its richness.  www.jacuzziwines.com

 

 

 

Rodney Strong Vineyards

 

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Endeavour, Dry Creek Valley, $65, 14.5% alc., 490 cases, contains 7% Petit Verdot and 2% Merlot. Aged in new French oak for twenty-six months, is still quite closed. Flavors of cherry, raspberry, plum, spice, leather, blackberry, dried cranberry, red currant, and touches of earth and smoky oak are laced with good acidity and very fine tannin. It finishes long and medium broad and needs another two years in the bottle to develop and open. Well integrated, structured, and balanced. Good.

 

The 2009 Symmetry, Meritage, [Alexander’s Crown, Rockaway, and Brothers Ridge vineyards], Alexander Valley, $55, 15.5% alc., is a blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec, 6% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc.  Each varietal was first aged for six months separately in French oak. The blend was then assembled and returned to barrels for an additional sixteen months before bottling. Very ripe aromas of smoky oak, blackberry, black raspberry, plum, and chocolate introduce big, mouth filling, almost fresh flavors of the same plus spice accented with tooth coating tannin before a long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good.

 

The 2008 Meritage, Sonoma County, $28, 14.5% alc., is a blend of 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 14% Malbec, and 6% Petit Verdot. It spent twenty-two months in equal amounts of French and American oak, 25% new. It has a very attractive bouquet of blackberry, leather, blueberry, smoke, black raspberry, dark cherry, and vanilla. Ripe, dark, layered flavors of the same plus plum, spice, and a touch of oak are shot through with very fine, smooth tannin and good acidity. Everything carries to the end of the broad, medium-long, persistent finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Good.

 

www.rodneystrong.com

 

 

Buena Vista

 

The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma, $15, 13.5% alc., has forward aromas of herb plus pear, lemon, apple, and floral. Big, bold flavors of the same are accented with brisk acidity and finish long and broad at the back with persistent lemon and lemon peel. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.

 

The 2011 Chardonnay, Sonoma, $15, 13.5% alc., aromas of cream, oak, lemon, and green apple introduce flavors the same but with the fruit first before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. A well put together Chard’ for those who like an oaky style.

 

The 2010 Pinot Noir, Sonoma, $15, 13.5% alc., has a nose of strawberry, cherry, red currant, and celery before juicy flavors of cherry, strawberry, and red currant laced with moderate acidity and the barest touch of tannin. The medium-broad, somewhat short finish completes the picture of this light bodied Pinot. Straight forward for everyday drinking.

 

The 2010 Merlot, Sonoma, $15, 13.5% alc., opens with cherry, blackberry, clove, cinnamon, and smoky oak. The same appear as flavors with the oak underneath and laced with fine tannin. The long, medium-broad finish has persistent clove and smoky oak. Well put together.

 

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, $15, 13.5% alc., contains 13% Merlot and 1% Syrah. A very ripe nose of blackberry, currant, cassis, dark plum, cinnamon, and smoke introduces fairly light bodied flavors of the same plus unsweetened chocolate that adds a bitter note, nice acidity, and very light tannin. It finishes long and medium-broad. Ripe but not sweet and nicely balanced, structured, and integrated.

 

The 2010 Zinfandel, Sonoma, $15, 14.5% alc., opens with smoky oak, ripe dark cherry and blackberry before bright flavors of cherry, red currant, raspberry, and blackberry with very fine tannin and good acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. The flavors are ripe but note sweet and the brightness should make this a popular Zin’. Well balanced, integrated, and structured, it is straight forward and attractively priced.

 

www.buenavistawinery.com

 

Souverain

 

The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast, $13, 13.9% alc., contains 12% Semillon and was fermented in 70% stainless steel and 30% neutral oak barrels. It was aged sur lie with frequent bâtonnage.  A very ling nose of herb, lemon, apple, and a floral touch introduces flavors of lemon, green apple, and herb accented with good acidity. Well put together. (This is the first time that Souverain has blended any Semillon into its Sauvignon Blanc.)

 

The 2010 Chardonnay, North Coast, $14, 13.9% alc., is 95% Chardonnay, 4% Semillon, and 1% Viognier. Seventy-six percent of wine was barrel fermented in French oak, 21% new, the balance in stainless steel. A very light nose of lemon, lemon peel, hay, and oak introduces round, somewhat juicy flavors of sweet lemon, apple, pear, and a touch of oak before a medium-broad, medium-long, persistent finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.

 

The 2010 Merlot, North Coast, $14, 13.9% alc., is a blend of 86% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Syrah, and 1% Petite Sirah.  Each was fermented separately before blending and aging in French oak, 25% new, for one year. Sweet, very ripe, jammy aromas of blackberry, raspberry, plum, chocolate, and vanilla lead to less sweet flavors of the same plus smoky oak. The long finish broadens at the back.

 

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast, $14, 13.9% alc., is a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petite Sirah, and 3% each of Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc. It was aged for one year in 32% new French and 68% older American oak. A restrained nose of cherry, blackberry, raspberry, blueberry, floral, and smoke leads to smooth flavors of the same except no blueberry and laced with light tannin and nice acidity. The long finish is broad at the back. Straight forward, well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty. Good Value.

 

www.souverain.com

 

Kendall-Jackson

 

Eleven percent of the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Vintner’s Reserve, [96% Lake County, 3% Mendocino, 1% Monterey], California, $13, 13.5% alc., was fermented and aged in oak, 4% of which was new American. The final blend is 88.6% Sauvignon Blanc, 9% Semillon, 1% Pinot Gris, 0.5% Riesling, 0.4% Chardonnay, and 0.3% Viognier. Sweet, floral, talc, lemon, and a hint of apple on the nose introduces round, mouth filling flavors of sweet lemon, pear, apple, a hint of spice, and lime laced with good acidity. Everything carries through the long, broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good. BEST BUY.

 

The 2010 Riesling, Vintner’s Reserve, Monterey County, $13, 12.3% alc., contains 3.4% Gewürztraminer and 1.6% Chardonnay. Very light aromas of grapefruit and mineral introduce bright, juicy flavors of peach, apricot, apple, and pear before a medium-long, medium-broad finish. Well off dry but with nice acidity to balance the sweetness, it will be very popular. Tasty.

The 2010 Merlot, Vintner’s Reserve, [76% Sonoma County, 24% Mendocino County], Sonoma County, $19, 13.5% alc., spent twelve months in oak, 59% French, 41% American. A blend of 99.5% Merlot, 0.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 0.1% each of Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc, it has a light nose of cherry, raspberry with a hard candy note, and red currant. Flavors of cherry, raspberry, currant, and smoky oak are laced with nice acidity and tooth coating tannin before a long, medium-broad finish. Well put together.

The 2010 Syrah, Vintner’s Reserve, Santa Barbara County, $17, 13.5% alc., is 98.6% Syrah, 0.6% Chardonnay, 0.4% Viognier, 0.3% Zinfandel, and 0.1% Petite Sirah. It was barrel aged in 73% French and 27% American oak for nine months. A perfumed, intense, jammy nose of red mixed red berries bursts from the glass and introduces flavors of cherry, raspberry, currant, and boysenberry that are ripe but not sweet and laced with light tannin and moderate acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish adds spice. The impression is clean fruit in this well balanced, integrated, and structured wine. Tasty.

The 2009 Summation, Red Wine Blend, [74% Mendocino County, 14% Sonoma County, 4% Napa County, and 8% Santa Barbara, Monterey, San Luis Obispo Counties], California, $17, 13.5% alc., opens with attractive aromas of smoke, cherry, blackberry, currant, blueberry, tobacco, and cedar before fresh, lively flavors of the same with yet more smoke and cedar. Everything carries through the long finish that broadens at the back. Well structured, integrated, and balanced. It will be popular. Tasty.

www.kj.com

 

 

Laguna

 

The 2010 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, $35, 14.4% alc., was barrel fermented, completed malolactic fermentation, and was aged in French and American oak for over twelve months. Soft, creamy aromas of toasty baked apple, broiled lemon, spice, and a hint of quince repeat as smoothly textured flavors underlain with firm oak. It finishes long and broad at the back. Well balanced, integrated, and structured.

 

River Road Family Vineyards and Winery

 

The first release from this new vintner is its 2012 Nouveau Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, $15, 12.5% alc., 240 cases, saw no oak.  Strawberry, earth, and touches of cherry and plum introduce round, crisp but not sweet flavors of strawberry and red plum with a touch of bitterness from the strawberry seeds, a hint of tannin, and moderate acidity. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. www.riverroadvineyards.com

 

 

Field Stone Winery and Vineyard

 

Sixty percent of the 2010 Chardonnay, Hopkins River Ranch, Russian River Valley, $25, 14.1% alc., 276 cases, completed malolactic fermentation and all was aged in French oak, 40% new, for nine months. It opens with toasty oak over apple and pear before big, round, mouth filling, almost smooth textured flavors of apple, pear, and toasty oak accented with moderate acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish is concentrated as a blob on the center of the tongue.  Well put together.

 

The 2011 Viognier, Alexander Valley, $25, 13.5% alc., 186 cases, was fermented in older French oak and opens with mineral, peach, pear, and pineapple that introduce flavors of mineral, lemon custard, pear, pineapple, and peach. Everything carries though the medium-broad, medium-long finish that adds some spice. The wine is restrained, has good acidity, and is nicely balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty.

Seventy percent of the 2011 Rosé of Petite Sirah, Heritage Block, Estate, Alexander Valley, $20, 13.5% alc., 290 cases, was fermented in stainless steel, thirty percent in seasoned French oak. It has light aromas of strawberry jam and sweet cranberry. Flavors of strawberry, sweet cranberry, and a touch of raspberry finish long and medium-broad with the addition of spice. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.

 

The 2010 Sangiovese, Lucio’s Block, Estate, Vineyard Select, Alexander Valley, $25, 14.35% alc., 328 cases, spent sixteen months in American oak and opens with cherry, plum, blueberry, earth, smoky oak, and some herbal notes. Flavors of the same plus pepper are laced with nice acidity and fine tannin and carry through the medium-broad, medium-long finish. A well put together, medium-bodied Sangiovese that will complement a wide range of foods.

 

The 2008 Merlot, Estate, André’s Block, Alexander Valley, $25, 14.1% alc., 490 cases, spent eighteen months in American oak, 30% new. It has a rich, attractive bouquet of blackberry, plum, dark cherry, witch hazel, and soft oak. Juicy, ripe but not sweet flavors of the same fruit and oak are laced with nice acidity and tooth coating tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will pair well with food. Very Tasty.

 

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Staten Family Reserve, Alexander Valley, $40, 14.5% alc., 497 cases, was aged in 50% new French oak for twenty months. It has an inviting nose of vanilla, chocolate, blackberry, cherry, licorice, sweet dried cranberry, and leather. Softly textured flavors of the same (but no leather) with the fruit first and the additions of pepper and well integrated smoky oak finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together and weighted to go well with food. Good.

 

www.fieldstonewinery.com

 

Cline Cellars

 

The 2011 Cashmere, California, $16, 13.5% alc., is a blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Syrah. Aged in French oak, 25% new, for eight months, it has sweet accented aromas of blackberry, black raspberry, cherry, sage, and smoky oak repeat as light bodied flavors laced with moderate acidity and a hint of tannin before a medium-broad, somewhat truncated finish. Well put together.

 

www.clinecellars.com

 

 

MacMurray Ranch

 

The 2010 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, $27, 13.8% alc. Opens with smoke, earth, cherry, raspberry, and red currant before light bodied flavors of the same that finish medium-broad and truncated. Straight forward and well put together. www.macmurrayranch.com

 

Blue Rock Family Winery

 

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, $, 14.1% alc., has nice aromas of blackberry, black cherry, cardamom, mocha, and cedar. Juicy, mouth filling flavors of the same with the mocha now chocolate and coffee and the addition of smoke and light, fine tannin finish medium-broad and medium-long. Enjoyable now, it will benefit from another year or two in the bottle to develop. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty.

 

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Best Barrels, Alexander Valley, $, 14.1% alc., opens with caramel, vanilla, dark chocolate enrobed cherry, currant, blackberry, and light, sweet, smoky oak. All repeat as light bodied flavors that will gain weight and depth with more time in the bottle. It finishes long and medium-broad. The wine has moderate acidity and very fine tannins. Almost elegant, it is well put together. Very Tasty. www.bluerockvineyard.com

 

LAKE AND MENDOCINO COUNTIES

 

Steele Wines

 

The 2010 Cuvée Chardonnay, [Goodchild and Bien Nacido Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley, and Katerina, Donnell, El Novillero, Durell, and Parmelee-Hill Vineyards, Carneros, and Lolonis Vineyard, Redwood Valley, and DuPratt Vineyard, Mendocino Ridge], California, $19, % alc., was fermented in French oak, 30% new, and aged sur lie with bâtonnage for eight months in the same oak. It completed malolactic fermentation and opens with pear, apple, floral, mineral, a hint of oak, and brown spice. Mouth filling, almost lush flavors of the same plus pineapple, mango, and grapefruit, has good acidity and finishes broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.

 

The 2011 Viognier, Lake County, $18, 13,5% alc., 300 cases, was fermented in stainless steel and then spent three months in neutral French oak before bottling. A nose of chalk, floral, baked apple, and sweet pink grapefruit introduces mouth filling, almost creamy flavors of baked apple, sweet grapefruit, and Asian pear before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well put together. Tasty.

 

Steele has just released two vineyard designated Pinots Noir. While both are from Santa Barbara vineyards, each is distinctive. The 2010 Pinot Noir, Goodchild Vineyard, Santa Barbara, $28, 13.5% alc., 500 cases, was aged in French oak for twelve months has light intensity but nicely rich aromas of cherry, earth, and black raspberry. Smooth, round, juicy flavors of the same plus spice, licorice, and a hint of cedar finish broad and medium-long. The wine has good acidity and fine tannin and will complement food. Well integrated, balanced, and structured. Good.

 

In contrast, the 2010 Pinot Noir, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Block N, Santa Barbara, $32, 13.5% alc., 500 cases, also spent twelve months in French oak. A hint of sweetness accents the cherry, blackberry, cocoa, vanilla, and smoke on the nose. Mouth filling, juicy flavors of the same have good body, nice acidity, and fine tannin and finish medium-broad, and medium-long. A good pairing with lighter foods. Well put together. Tasty.

 

The 2009 Zinfandel, Pacini Vineyard, Mendocino County, $18, 13.5% alc., was matured for twelve months in American oak, 25% new. It opens with dark chocolate enrobed cherry, blackberry, currant, and plum with added notes of bramble and earth. Round, medium bodied flavors of the same with the chocolate at the end and hints of licorice carry through the medium-broad, medium-long finish. A lighter style Zin’ with good presence and intensity, it is well structured, balanced, and integrated and will pair nicely with food.

www.steelewines.com

 

Steele-Stymie (by Steele Wines)

 

The 2009 Merlot, Founder’s Reserve, Lake County, $45, % alc., aged for thirty months in French and American oak. It has a ripe, smooth nose of chocolate syrup, plum, blackberry, cherry, and mocha before flavors of the same plus touches of pepper and tobacco laced with gripy tannin and moderate acidity before a long, medium-broad finish. Drink it now with fatty meats where the tannin will cut the fat or give it another few years in the bottle to moderate the tannin.

The 2009 Syrah, Founder’s Reserve, Lake County, $36, 13.5% alc., 400 cases, spent twenty-two months in barrel and has attractive aromas of cherry, raspberry, sweet earth, vanilla, and smoky oak. The palate adds blueberry, hints of cinnamon and nutmeg, fine tannin, and nice acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will complement food. Good.

 

Shooting Star (by Steele Wines)

 

The 2011 Aligoté, Washington State, $14, 13.2% alc., was barrel fermented in older oak and opens with oak, grapefruit peel, lemon, and mineral aromas before smooth, round flavors of the same accented with a touch of spritz. It finishes medium-broad and somewhat truncated. A straight forward wine especially for an afternoon on the deck or to use for the traditional Kir. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.

 

The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Lake County, $13, % alc., was co-fermented with 10% Semillon in stainless steel. An herbal nose with notes of tropical fruit, grapefruit, and spicy apple introduces flavors of lemon, grapefruit, green apple, mint, herb, and passion fruit that finish long, broad, and persistent. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.

 

CENTRAL COAST

 

Lucas & Lewellen

 

The 2007 Cabernet Franc, Estate, Valley View Vineyard, Santa Barbara County, $28, 14.5% alc., 136 cases, spent twenty-four months in French oak and has a very light nose of raspberry, cherry, and a hint of spice. Somewhat tart flavors of cherry, raspberry, and red currant are accented with fine tannin and finish broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.  www.llwine.com

 

Vina Robles

 

The 2011 White4, Paso Robles, $16, 14.1% alc., is a blend of 53% Viognier, 18% Vermentino, 17% Verdelho, and 12% Sauvignon Blanc. It was aged in stainless steel tanks and neutral French oak and has a restrained nose of nougat, melon, and wildflower honey before flavors of apple, lemon at the top, mango, and a floral note. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together.

 

The 2011 Red4, Paso Robles, $17, 14.1% alc., is 61% Syrah, 25% Petite Sirah, and 7% each of Grenache and Mourvèdre. Matured for eighteen months in French oak, 30% new, has a rich nose of blackberry, cherry, plum, vanilla, chocolate, tobacco, and a touch of smoky oak. Flavors of the same plus a touch of spice are ripe but not sweet and are laced with nice acidity and fine tanning. Everything carries through the medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.

www.vinarobles.com

 

Edna Valley Vineyard

 

Fifteen percent of the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Central Coast, $15, 13.9% alc., was fermented and aged sur lie in French oak for four months; the balance was made and aged in stainless steel. Restrained aromas of grass, chalk, forsythia, and grapefruit introduce round, smooth flavors of the same plus touches of orange and lime that finish medium-broad and somewhat truncated. Well put together. www.ednavalleyvineyards.com

 

Clayhouse Vineyard

 

The 2011 Adobe Pink, Central Coast, $14, 13.5% alc., is orange-pink in color and opens with floral, raspberry, and strawberry aromas. Light bodied flavors of lemon peel, raspberry had candy, and strawberry finish medium-broad and truncated. Well balanced, integrated, and structured.  www.clayhousewines.com

 

 

Other California

 

Plungerhead

 

The 2011Zinfandel, Lodi, $16, 14.5% alc., contains 80% Zinfandel, 5% each of Petite Sirah, Primitivo and Syrah. Light aromas of ripe dark cherry, blackberry, raspberry, bacon, and leather introduce bright, fairly light bodied flavors of the same plus pepper, blueberry, light tannin, and moderate acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish flows swiftly to the back of the palate where a touch of alcohol appears. Well put together and fairly simple

 

The 2011 Zinfandel, Old Vine, Dry Creek Valley, $18, 14.5% alc., is 86% Zinfandel, 8% Syrah, and 6% Tannat, and has very light cherry, blackberry, and smoke with hints of white pepper and cinnamon. Flavors of the same plus vanilla and black tea are medium bodied and accented with a hint of sweetness, good acidity and tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.

www.togwines.com

 

Pennywise

 

The 2011 Chardonnay, California, $12, 13.4% alc., has bright aromas of lemon, apple, pineapple, and papaya before juicy, bright flavors of the same with good acidity before a long, medium-broad finish. Simple, well balanced, structured, and integrated. A nice choice for an everyday Chard’.

 

The 2011 Petite Sirah, California, $12, 13.5% alc., contains 8% Merlot and 6% Tannat. A light nose of blackberry, black cherry, and black raspberry plus hints of cinnamon, toast, and cedar, introduces light bodied flavors of the same plus oregano and smoky oak laced with moderate acidity and light tannin. It finishes medium-broad and somewhat truncated. A well put together, straight forward red for everyday drinking.

www.togwines.com

 

White Knight

 

The 2011 Riesling, Lake County, $13, 13.3% alc., has aromas of wild flower honey, overripe pineapple, jasmine, and pear before round, soft spice flavors of the same which are just off dry. The finish is medium-broad and truncated.

 

The 2011 Viognier, Clarksburg, $13, contains 6% Chardonnay and 4% Muscat Alexandria. It was mostly tank fermented with a small portion in French oak. Soft floral, herb, and grapefruit aromas lead to round, smooth, flavors of lemon, lime, and pink grapefruit that finish long and medium-broad. Well put together.

 

The 2011 Moscato, California, $13, 13.3% alc., opens with wildflower honey, overripe pineapple, Asian pear, and jasmine before round, soft, spicy flavors of the same plus some ginger and lemon. The finish is medium-broad and truncated. The acidity keeps the wine from tasting sweet.

www.togwines.com

 

Pepi

 

The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, [Clarksburg and Lake County] California, $10, 12% alc., has restrained aromas of herb, apple, white peach, lemon-lime, and lemon peel. Juicy flavors of the same are dominated by the lemon-lime and finish long and broad. Well put together. Tasty.

 

 A “significant portion” of the 2011 Chardonnay, [Arroyo Seco and Delta] California, $10, 13.4% alc., completed malolactic fermentation and was aged sur lie in French and American oak for five months. Aromas of green apple, lemon, pear, and light toast lead to soft flavors of the same with initial sweetness that fades and leave leaves the flavors medium bright. The broad, medium-long finish adds spice at the sides. A straight forward, well put together Chard’ for everyday drinking. BEST BUY.

 

The 2011 Chenin Blanc-Viognier, [Clarksburg and Central Valley] California, $10, 12.4% alc., was made entirely in stainless steel. Very light aromas of pear and apple precedes round, smoothly textured flavors of pomelo, pineapple, apple, and lime that finish long and broad at the back. Well put together. Tasty.

www.pepi.com

 

 

Bogle Vineyard

 

The 2011 Chardonnay, California, $11, 13.5% alc., has aromas of oak, pear, apple, and lemon peel. Creamy textured flavors of the same with nice acidity finish long and medium-broad. It has more apparent oak than previous releases and is well balanced, structured, and integrated. BEST BUY.

 

The 2010 Merlot, California, $10, 13.5% alc., has a dark, ripe nose of blackberry, cherry, plum, vanilla, caramel, and smoky oak. Juicy flavors of the same fruit plus licorice, and smoky oak are laced with fine tannin and moderate acidity and finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, integrated, and structured. Tasty.

 

The 2009 Essential Red, California, $11, 13.5% alc., is a blend of Old Vine Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petite Sirah. Aged for eighteen months in American and French oak, has restrained aromas of blackberry, cherry, currant, leather, and smoke. All repeat as flavors  laced with good acidity and nice, light, smooth tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well structured, integrated, and balanced. Very Tasty. www.boglewinery.com

 

Leese-Fitch

 

The 2011 Chardonnay, [69% Lodi, 19% Clarksburg, 12% California], California, $12, 13.8% alc., has aromas of toast, baked apple, lemon peel, and a hint of rose talc. Mouth filling, juicy flavors of apple, pomelo, lemon peel, sweet pineapple, and a hint of coriander finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together.

 

The 2011 Pinot Noir, California, $13, 13.5% alc., blended fruit from seven different areas from Santa Barbara in the south to Mendocino in the north and the Sierra Foothills in the east. It contains 76% Pinot Noir, 13% Syrah, 6% Grenache, and 5% Barbera. Aromas of cherry and blackberry with hints of earth and milk chocolate repeat as quite ripe but not sweet flavors laced with moderate acidity and light tannin before a long finish that broadens at the back. The wine is straight forward and well put together but without richness. A nice choice to accompany a simple lunch.

 

www.donandsons.com

 

 

Pepperwood Grove

 

The nv Merlot, California, $7, 13.5% alc., show some vanilla from French oak and has a lush, sweet accented nose of cherry, blackberry, raspberry, and plum. The same repeat as ripe but not sweet flavors with the additions of smoke, fine tannin, and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, truncated finish. A well put together Merlot for everyday drinking with pizza and ‘burgers.  www.donandsons.com

 

 

Apothic

 

The 2011 White, California, $14, 12.6% alc., is a blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, and Moscato. A portion completed malolactic fermentation and it has aromas of creamy apple, papaya, pear, and Rangpoor lime that introduce round, sweet accented flavors of papaya, pineapple, apple, and pear with soft acidity before a broad, medium-long finish. It will be popular.  www.apothic.com

 

 

Mirassou Winery

 

The 2010 Merlot, California, $12, 13.06% alc., has aromas of blueberry, boysenberry, black raspberry, cherry, and hints of cocoa and anise. Flavors of the same plus smoky oak are shot through with tooth coating tannin and moderate acidity and finish medium-broad and medium-long. A big bodied Merlot with good presence, it will be popular. Well put together. Very Tasty. BEST BUY.  www.mirassou.com

 

 

Gnarly Head

 

Like most Pinto Grigio, the normal”>BEST BUY.

The 2010 Zinfandel, Old Vine, Lodi, $12, 14.5% alc., has round aromas of black raspberry, cherry, strawberry, and touches of blueberry and smoke. Flavors of the same are mouth filling and have nice presence, good, moderate acidity, and fine tannin. It finishes medium-broad, and medium-long. Medium bodied and with nice freshness, it is well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty. www.gnarlyhead.com

 

Moobuzz

 

The 2011 Pinot Noir, [86% Monterey, 10% Mendocino, 4% Lodi], California, $15, 13.5% alc., is a blend of 86% Pinot Noir, 10% Sangiovese, 3% Tempranillo, and 1% Syrah. Light aromas of barnyard and cherry introduce cherry dominated flavors with nice acidity and very light tannin. The finish is long and broad at the back. Very simple. www.togwines.com

 

Pennywise

 

The 2011 Pinot Noir, California, $12, 13.5% alc., sourced its fruit from six different areas mostly from Clarksburg south and the final blend is 90% Pinot Noir, 6% Barbera, and 4% Sangiovese. It has a light nose of dark cherry with a hint of plum that continues as light bodied flavors with the additions of some blackberry, moderate acidity and very light tannin. It finishes long and medium-broad with the addition of some smoke. Simple.  www.togwines.com

 

FRANCE

 

Château Puy-Blanquet, St. Émilion, Grand Cru

 

The 2009, $26, 13.5% alc., has a very restrained tobacco, cigar box, currant, dark cherry, and dust nose before, round, flavors of the same plus oak and fine tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together, it needs time to open.

 

Château Bonnet, Entre-Deux-Mer

 

The 2011, $13, 12% alc., is a blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon, and 10% Muscadelle. Aromas of grass, lees, and a hint of floral introduce smooth, soft flavors  of apple, peach, and grass accented with a hint of sweetness that finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together.

 

Dourthe

 

The 2011 La Grande Cuvée, Bordeaux, $15, 12% alc., is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. A nose of herb, grass, and floral introduces flavors of the same plus green apple, and Meyer lemon that finish long and broader at the back. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.

 

Barton & Guestier

 

The 2010 Sauternes, $25, 13.5% alc., is 80 % Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of earth, orange peel, cooked fruit, and honey introduce sweet, thick flavors of the same before a somewhat short, truncated finish. (A note: Most Sauternes are made to improve with aging. However, B&G has chosen to finish this one with a technical cork (one made from pieces of cork that have been bonded together) that cork makers do not recommend for a wine that will be kept for more than a few years.)

 

 

SPAIN

 

Albariño is Spain’s counterpart to France’s Muscadet—a great wine to accompany seafood. In Portugal the same grape is Alvarinho and, in addition to seafood, the Portuguese serve it with suckling pig.

 

Zios

 

The 2011 Albariño, Rías Biaxas D.O., $14, 13%, has aromas of lemon peel and mineral that repeat as round, almost soft, flavors with the addition of spice and moderate acidity. The long, medium-broad finish shows persistent spice especially at the sides. Straight forward and well put together.

 

Martin Códax

 

The 2011 Albariño, Rías Biaxas D.O., $15, 12.5% alc., has flavors of lemon, green apple, mineral, and a touch of salt. The medium-broad, medium-long finish adds an interesting hint of mint. Well put together.

 

Serra

 

The 2011 Albariño, Rías Biaxas D.O., $18, opens with woody herb, lime, and lime peel before flavors of the same laced with moderate acidity before a long, broad finish. Well put together.

 

Mar de Frades

 

The 2011 Albariño, Val do Salnes, Rías Biaxas D.O., $25, 12.5% alc., has light, soft aromas before juicy, mouth filling flavors of lemon, lime peel, and mineral that finish long and medium-broad. Well put together. Tasty.

 

VAZA

2009 Crianza, Rioja D.O., $15, 13.8% alc., is a “modern” Crianza that was aged in American and French oak for twelve months. Sweet baked cherry and blackberry on the nose introduces fairly bright, light bodied flavors of cherry, currant, blackberry, and vanilla oak laced with fine tannin and nice acidity. The long finish broadens at the back. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.

 

Martin Códax

 

A portion of the 2010 Ergo Tempranillo, Rioja D.O., $14, 13.5% alc., was aged for one year in used American oak and the final blend contains 15% Garnacha. It has attractive aromas of earth, cherry, spice, and smoke that repeat as flavors laced with good acidity and fine tannin before a long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Straight forward and a good choice for any everyday Tempranillo.

 

ITALY

 

Ecco Domani

The BEST BUY.

 

 

ARGENTINA

 

Don Miguel Gascón

 

The 2011 Malbec, Luján de Cuyo and Uco Valley, $15, 13.9% alc., juicy flavors of rhubarb, cranberry, raspberry, strawberry, and Montmorency cherry are accented with light tannin and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Straight forward.

 

Alamos

 

The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, $13, 13.9% alc., spent six to nine months in older French and American oak. It has fresh, forward aromas of blackberry, dark cherry, raspberry, and smoky oak. Juicy, forward flavors of the same add a touch of pepper, firm oak, and fine tannin. The medium-long finish broadens at the back and shows persistent smoke. The fruit is sweet and the wine is well put together.  

The 2010 Malbec, Selección, Mendoza, $20, 13.8% alc., was aged for nine to twelve months in a combination of French and American oak and has a nose of barnyard and smoky oak before flavors of the same plus cherry, raspberry, and unripe strawberry laced with light tannin and moderate acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long.

 

AUSTRALIA

 

Yangarra Estate Vineyard

 

The 2008 Shiraz, McLaren Vale, $25, 14.5% alc., spent eighteen months in French oak, 30% new. Aromas of earth, baked blackberry, rose, licorice, and smoke repeat as big, mouth filling flavors with the addition of blueberry and shot through with fine tannin and good acidity. It finishes long and medium-broad. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty.

 

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