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Wine Notes: December 2012
The following notes are arranged by winery and area, state or country. Website addresses are given when available. This may be important if you cannot locate a particular wine locally because most wineries will be happy to ship you their wines if you contact them. Also, not every wine produced or in current release by any of the wineries covered here is reviewed in these notes and the websites often include more information on the wines than you will find here. (Websites are noted for domestic producers from which wines can be purchased directly.) Please remember that if you have questions you may contact us by email or telephone and we will try to answer them.
Notes on wines from California are followed by those from Europe, South America, and Australia.
Napa Valley
Long Meadow Ranch
This 650-acre property atop the Mayacamas Mountains was a working ranch before it added or re-established vineyards that had originally been planted in the 1870s. Now in addition to wine it continues the ranching operation with grass fed beef, olive oils, and fruits and vegetables. All of its crops are certified as organic.
Its wines are crafted to complement foods and are less dense and have lower alcohols than many others from Napa Valley. If you can’t find them, contact the winery: www.longmeadowranch.com.
The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, $20, 12.5% alc., opens with nice, forward, fairly bright grass, herb, white peach, pear, and green apple before flavors dominated by grass, herb, and green apple accented with good acidity. The medium-broad, truncated, persistent finish has a bitter note. Well put together. Tasty.
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, Napa Valley, $40, 13.5% alc., contains 10% merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. It was aged in French oak, 50% new, for two years and spent an additional two years in the bottle before release. A bouquet of blackberry, black cherry, cassis, black raspberry, and some smoky oak repeats as flavors with the addition of spice that begins at the front and sides and then spreads across the palate. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long with persistent spice. The wine has a moderate amount of fine tannin and good acidity and is well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $47, 13.5% alc., is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 2% Petite Sirah. It was aged in French oak, 50% new, has a ripe, forward nose of plum, blackberry, cherry, and cocoa powder. All continue with the addition of smoky oak and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, truncated finish.
The 2008 Ranch House Red, Napa Valley, $29, 13.5% alc., is a blend that changes with each vintage. The ’08 has aromas of cherry, blackberry, and smoky oak before light bodied flavors of the same with more smoke and a touch of tar all laced with nice acidity and light tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. A well put together red for everyday drinking.
The 2007 E.J. Church, $85, 13.5% alc., 150 cases, is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and is Long Meadow’s reserve. Named after the original owner of the property, it opens with cherry, cassis, currant, raspberry, and well integrated smoky oak. Bright cherry, raspberry, currant, and cassis flavors are accented with a touch of smoky oak and laced with wonderful acidity and fine tannin. Everything carries through the long, broad finish. Easily drinkable now, it will benefit from another three years of bottle age. Good to Very Good.
Bourassa Vineyards
The 2010 Syrah, Rhapsody3, Proprietors Reserve, [Tulocay, Oak Knoll, and Yountville], Napa Valley, $45, 14.3% alc., 250 cases, opens with restrained cherry currant, blackberry, and white pepper on the nose. Restrained flavors of the same plus hints of earth and smoky oak finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured and integrated, it will gain depth and richness with a few more years in the bottle. Tasty. www.bourassavineyards.com
Louis M. Martini Winery
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, [Alexander Valley and Dry Creek Valley, plus a small amount of Cabernet from Lake County], Sonoma County, $18, 13.4% alc., contains some Petite Sirah and was aged mostly in French oak. It has aromas of raspberry syrup, cherry, blueberry, currant, and smoke with hints of caramel and mocha. The syrup and blueberry disappear on the palate and light tannin and nice acidity are added. The long, medium-broad finish adds spice at the sides. Well put together. Tasty. www.louismartini.com
Whitehall Lane Winery & Vineyards
The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, $18, % alc., contains 12% Semillon and opens with soft pear, apple, unripe pineapple, and floral notes before mouth filling flavors of the same plus lemon that finish long and broad. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
The 2009 Merlot, Napa Valley, $28, % alc., is a blend of 80% Merlot, 15% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Still closed, it has flavors of cherry, currant, raspberry, light oak, some green peppercorn at the front, nice acid, and fine tannin before a long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it needs another two years in the bottle to develop and open. Good.
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $40, % alc., contains 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec. It immediately impresses as a “serious” Cabernet with a nose of cocoa, coffee, blackberry, currant, plum, and hints of vanilla and smoky oak. Flavors of the same lead by the blackberry and with the additions of cherry, fine tannin, and moderate acidity finish long and broad. Well structured, integrated, and balanced, it needs another two years or so in the bottle to develop, open and begin to show at its best. Good.
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Napa Valley, $75, contains 4% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot and is quite different. Still closed, it has inviting aromas of floral, black raspberry, blackberry, dark cherry, currant, mocha, and light smoky oak. All repeat as round flavors with good richness and the addition of a touch of leather and laced with fine, tooth coating tannin and good acidity. Everything carries through the long, broad, persistent finish. The wine has nice presence and is well integrated, structured, and balanced. It will benefit from another three years in the bottle to open and develop. Very Good.
Marilyn Wines (by Nova Wines)
The 2010 Merlot, [Yountville and Oakville], Napa Valley, $30, 13.9% alc., contains 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Ripe aromas of cherry, blackberry, boysenberry, toasty oak and a hint of anise repeat with the additions of notes of cranberry and rhubarb all laced with good acidity and tooth coating tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Easily drinkable now, it will grow and smooth out with another year in the bottle. Tasty.
The 2010 Meritage, Napa Valley, $50, 14.5% alc., 720 cases, is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 6% each of Cabernet Franc and Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot. Jammy blackberry, raspberry, and cassis on the nose precedes flavors of the same which are ripe but not jammy and with the additions of smoky oak, cherry, cranberry, and fine tannin accented with nice acidity. The finish is medium-broad and somewhat truncated. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
Sonoma County
Pedroncelli
The 2011 Chardonnay, Vintage Selection, Dry Creek Valley, $13, 14.2% alc., has inviting aromas of apple, pear, lemon, Asian pear, and light toast. Mouth filling, juicy flavors of the same plus a touch of oak are fresh and accented with good acidity before a long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good.
The 2011 Dry Rosé of Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, $11, 13.5%% alc., 998 cases, was made in stainless steel has an attractive nose of cherry and strawberry-raspberry before bright, zippy flavors of the same plus some cinnamon and pepper all shot through with nice acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well structured, integrated, and balanced. Very Tasty. The 2011 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, $20, 13.5% alc., was aged in French oak, 25% new, has a very light nose of cherry and floral with hints of blackberry and smoky. Juicy flavors of the same are light bodied and accented with moderate acidity and very light tannin and finish medium-broad and medium-long. Straight forward and well put together.
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Three Vineyards, $17, 14.3% alc., spent fourteen months in American and French oak barrels. The final blend is 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Merlot. Restrained, inviting aromas of cherry, raspberry, currant, blackberry, and chocolate introduce flavors of the same fruit laced with good acidity and fine tannin plus pepper across the front before a long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will benefit from another year in the bottle to open and develop. Good.
The 2009 Petite Sirah, Family Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, $16, 14.4% alc., 900 cases, is 84% Petite Sirah and 16% Syrah, and was matured for seventeen months in American oak. Still closed, it has quite ripe aromas of black cherry, vanilla, blackberry, and white pepper before flavors of the same fruit which is ripe but not sweet, tooth coating tannin, and moderate acidity. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together. Tasty.
Jacuzzi Family Vineyards
The 2010 Barbera, Mendocino County, $16, 14.5% alc., was matured in 34% new French oak for twelve months. Rich, ripe aromas of dark cherry, blackberry, smoky oak, and vanilla repeat as flavors laced with moderate acidity and a hint of tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Drink this well put together, new world Barbera now to appreciate its richness. www.jacuzziwines.com
Rodney Strong Vineyards
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Endeavour, Dry Creek Valley, $65, 14.5% alc., 490 cases, contains 7% Petit Verdot and 2% Merlot. Aged in new French oak for twenty-six months, is still quite closed. Flavors of cherry, raspberry, plum, spice, leather, blackberry, dried cranberry, red currant, and touches of earth and smoky oak are laced with good acidity and very fine tannin. It finishes long and medium broad and needs another two years in the bottle to develop and open. Well integrated, structured, and balanced. Good.
The 2009 Symmetry, Meritage, [Alexander’s Crown, Rockaway, and Brothers Ridge vineyards], Alexander Valley, $55, 15.5% alc., is a blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec, 6% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Each varietal was first aged for six months separately in French oak. The blend was then assembled and returned to barrels for an additional sixteen months before bottling. Very ripe aromas of smoky oak, blackberry, black raspberry, plum, and chocolate introduce big, mouth filling, almost fresh flavors of the same plus spice accented with tooth coating tannin before a long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good.
The 2008 Meritage, Sonoma County, $28, 14.5% alc., is a blend of 33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 14% Malbec, and 6% Petit Verdot. It spent twenty-two months in equal amounts of French and American oak, 25% new. It has a very attractive bouquet of blackberry, leather, blueberry, smoke, black raspberry, dark cherry, and vanilla. Ripe, dark, layered flavors of the same plus plum, spice, and a touch of oak are shot through with very fine, smooth tannin and good acidity. Everything carries to the end of the broad, medium-long, persistent finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Good.
Buena Vista
The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma, $15, 13.5% alc., has forward aromas of herb plus pear, lemon, apple, and floral. Big, bold flavors of the same are accented with brisk acidity and finish long and broad at the back with persistent lemon and lemon peel. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.
The 2011 Chardonnay, Sonoma, $15, 13.5% alc., aromas of cream, oak, lemon, and green apple introduce flavors the same but with the fruit first before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. A well put together Chard’ for those who like an oaky style.
The 2010 Pinot Noir, Sonoma, $15, 13.5% alc., has a nose of strawberry, cherry, red currant, and celery before juicy flavors of cherry, strawberry, and red currant laced with moderate acidity and the barest touch of tannin. The medium-broad, somewhat short finish completes the picture of this light bodied Pinot. Straight forward for everyday drinking.
The 2010 Merlot, Sonoma, $15, 13.5% alc., opens with cherry, blackberry, clove, cinnamon, and smoky oak. The same appear as flavors with the oak underneath and laced with fine tannin. The long, medium-broad finish has persistent clove and smoky oak. Well put together.
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, $15, 13.5% alc., contains 13% Merlot and 1% Syrah. A very ripe nose of blackberry, currant, cassis, dark plum, cinnamon, and smoke introduces fairly light bodied flavors of the same plus unsweetened chocolate that adds a bitter note, nice acidity, and very light tannin. It finishes long and medium-broad. Ripe but not sweet and nicely balanced, structured, and integrated.
The 2010 Zinfandel, Sonoma, $15, 14.5% alc., opens with smoky oak, ripe dark cherry and blackberry before bright flavors of cherry, red currant, raspberry, and blackberry with very fine tannin and good acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. The flavors are ripe but note sweet and the brightness should make this a popular Zin’. Well balanced, integrated, and structured, it is straight forward and attractively priced.
Souverain
The 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast, $13, 13.9% alc., contains 12% Semillon and was fermented in 70% stainless steel and 30% neutral oak barrels. It was aged sur lie with frequent bâtonnage. A very ling nose of herb, lemon, apple, and a floral touch introduces flavors of lemon, green apple, and herb accented with good acidity. Well put together. (This is the first time that Souverain has blended any Semillon into its Sauvignon Blanc.)
The 2010 Chardonnay, North Coast, $14, 13.9% alc., is 95% Chardonnay, 4% Semillon, and 1% Viognier. Seventy-six percent of wine was barrel fermented in French oak, 21% new, the balance in stainless steel. A very light nose of lemon, lemon peel, hay, and oak introduces round, somewhat juicy flavors of sweet lemon, apple, pear, and a touch of oak before a medium-broad, medium-long, persistent finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
The 2010 Merlot, North Coast, $14, 13.9% alc., is a blend of 86% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Syrah, and 1% Petite Sirah. Each was fermented separately before blending and aging in French oak, 25% new, for one year. Sweet, very ripe, jammy aromas of blackberry, raspberry, plum, chocolate, and vanilla lead to less sweet flavors of the same plus smoky oak. The long finish broadens at the back.
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast, $14, 13.9% alc., is a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petite Sirah, and 3% each of Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc. It was aged for one year in 32% new French and 68% older American oak. A restrained nose of cherry, blackberry, raspberry, blueberry, floral, and smoke leads to smooth flavors of the same except no blueberry and laced with light tannin and nice acidity. The long finish is broad at the back. Straight forward, well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty. Good Value.
Kendall-Jackson
Eleven percent of the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Vintner’s Reserve, [96% Lake County, 3% Mendocino, 1% Monterey], California, $13, 13.5% alc., was fermented and aged in oak, 4% of which was new American. The final blend is 88.6% Sauvignon Blanc, 9% Semillon, 1% Pinot Gris, 0.5% Riesling, 0.4% Chardonnay, and 0.3% Viognier. Sweet, floral, talc, lemon, and a hint of apple on the nose introduces round, mouth filling flavors of sweet lemon, pear, apple, a hint of spice, and lime laced with good acidity. Everything carries through the long, broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good. BEST BUY.
The 2010 Riesling, Vintner’s Reserve, Monterey County, $13, 12.3% alc., contains 3.4% Gewürztraminer and 1.6% Chardonnay. Very light aromas of grapefruit and mineral introduce bright, juicy flavors of peach, apricot, apple, and pear before a medium-long, medium-broad finish. Well off dry but with nice acidity to balance the sweetness, it will be very popular. Tasty.
The 2010 Merlot, Vintner’s Reserve, [76% Sonoma County, 24% Mendocino County], Sonoma County, $19, 13.5% alc., spent twelve months in oak, 59% French, 41% American. A blend of 99.5% Merlot, 0.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 0.1% each of Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Cabernet Franc, it has a light nose of cherry, raspberry with a hard candy note, and red currant. Flavors of cherry, raspberry, currant, and smoky oak are laced with nice acidity and tooth coating tannin before a long, medium-broad finish. Well put together.
The 2010 Syrah, Vintner’s Reserve, Santa Barbara County, $17, 13.5% alc., is 98.6% Syrah, 0.6% Chardonnay, 0.4% Viognier, 0.3% Zinfandel, and 0.1% Petite Sirah. It was barrel aged in 73% French and 27% American oak for nine months. A perfumed, intense, jammy nose of red mixed red berries bursts from the glass and introduces flavors of cherry, raspberry, currant, and boysenberry that are ripe but not sweet and laced with light tannin and moderate acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish adds spice. The impression is clean fruit in this well balanced, integrated, and structured wine. Tasty.
The 2009 Summation, Red Wine Blend, [74% Mendocino County, 14% Sonoma County, 4% Napa County, and 8% Santa Barbara, Monterey, San Luis Obispo Counties], California, $17, 13.5% alc., opens with attractive aromas of smoke, cherry, blackberry, currant, blueberry, tobacco, and cedar before fresh, lively flavors of the same with yet more smoke and cedar. Everything carries through the long finish that broadens at the back. Well structured, integrated, and balanced. It will be popular. Tasty.
Laguna
The 2010 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, $35, 14.4% alc., was barrel fermented, completed malolactic fermentation, and was aged in French and American oak for over twelve months. Soft, creamy aromas of toasty baked apple, broiled lemon, spice, and a hint of quince repeat as smoothly textured flavors underlain with firm oak. It finishes long and broad at the back. Well balanced, integrated, and structured.
River Road Family Vineyards and Winery
The first release from this new vintner is its 2012 Nouveau Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, $15, 12.5% alc., 240 cases, saw no oak. Strawberry, earth, and touches of cherry and plum introduce round, crisp but not sweet flavors of strawberry and red plum with a touch of bitterness from the strawberry seeds, a hint of tannin, and moderate acidity. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. www.riverroadvineyards.com
Field Stone Winery and Vineyard
Sixty percent of the 2010 Chardonnay, Hopkins River Ranch, Russian River Valley, $25, 14.1% alc., 276 cases, completed malolactic fermentation and all was aged in French oak, 40% new, for nine months. It opens with toasty oak over apple and pear before big, round, mouth filling, almost smooth textured flavors of apple, pear, and toasty oak accented with moderate acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish is concentrated as a blob on the center of the tongue. Well put together.
The 2011 Viognier, Alexander Valley, $25, 13.5% alc., 186 cases, was fermented in older French oak and opens with mineral, peach, pear, and pineapple that introduce flavors of mineral, lemon custard, pear, pineapple, and peach. Everything carries though the medium-broad, medium-long finish that adds some spice. The wine is restrained, has good acidity, and is nicely balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty.
Seventy percent of the 2011 Rosé of Petite Sirah, Heritage Block, Estate, Alexander Valley, $20, 13.5% alc., 290 cases, was fermented in stainless steel, thirty percent in seasoned French oak. It has light aromas of strawberry jam and sweet cranberry. Flavors of strawberry, sweet cranberry, and a touch of raspberry finish long and medium-broad with the addition of spice. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
The 2010 Sangiovese, Lucio’s Block, Estate, Vineyard Select, Alexander Valley, $25, 14.35% alc., 328 cases, spent sixteen months in American oak and opens with cherry, plum, blueberry, earth, smoky oak, and some herbal notes. Flavors of the same plus pepper are laced with nice acidity and fine tannin and carry through the medium-broad, medium-long finish. A well put together, medium-bodied Sangiovese that will complement a wide range of foods.
The 2008 Merlot, Estate, André’s Block, Alexander Valley, $25, 14.1% alc., 490 cases, spent eighteen months in American oak, 30% new. It has a rich, attractive bouquet of blackberry, plum, dark cherry, witch hazel, and soft oak. Juicy, ripe but not sweet flavors of the same fruit and oak are laced with nice acidity and tooth coating tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will pair well with food. Very Tasty.
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Staten Family Reserve, Alexander Valley, $40, 14.5% alc., 497 cases, was aged in 50% new French oak for twenty months. It has an inviting nose of vanilla, chocolate, blackberry, cherry, licorice, sweet dried cranberry, and leather. Softly textured flavors of the same (but no leather) with the fruit first and the additions of pepper and well integrated smoky oak finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together and weighted to go well with food. Good.
Cline Cellars
The 2011 Cashmere, California, $16, 13.5% alc., is a blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Syrah. Aged in French oak, 25% new, for eight months, it has sweet accented aromas of blackberry, black raspberry, cherry, sage, and smoky oak repeat as light bodied flavors laced with moderate acidity and a hint of tannin before a medium-broad, somewhat truncated finish. Well put together.
MacMurray Ranch
The 2010 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, $27, 13.8% alc. Opens with smoke, earth, cherry, raspberry, and red currant before light bodied flavors of the same that finish medium-broad and truncated. Straight forward and well put together. www.macmurrayranch.com
Blue Rock Family Winery
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, $, 14.1% alc., has nice aromas of blackberry, black cherry, cardamom, mocha, and cedar. Juicy, mouth filling flavors of the same with the mocha now chocolate and coffee and the addition of smoke and light, fine tannin finish medium-broad and medium-long. Enjoyable now, it will benefit from another year or two in the bottle to develop. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty.
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Best Barrels, Alexander Valley, $, 14.1% alc., opens with caramel, vanilla, dark chocolate enrobed cherry, currant, blackberry, and light, sweet, smoky oak. All repeat as light bodied flavors that will gain weight and depth with more time in the bottle. It finishes long and medium-broad. The wine has moderate acidity and very fine tannins. Almost elegant, it is well put together. Very Tasty. www.bluerockvineyard.com
LAKE AND MENDOCINO COUNTIES
Steele Wines
The 2010 Cuvée Chardonnay, [Goodchild and Bien Nacido Vineyards, Santa Ynez Valley, and Katerina, Donnell, El Novillero, Durell, and Parmelee-Hill Vineyards, Carneros, and Lolonis Vineyard, Redwood Valley, and DuPratt Vineyard, Mendocino Ridge], California, $19, % alc., was fermented in French oak, 30% new, and aged sur lie with bâtonnage for eight months in the same oak. It completed malolactic fermentation and opens with pear, apple, floral, mineral, a hint of oak, and brown spice. Mouth filling, almost lush flavors of the same plus pineapple, mango, and grapefruit, has good acidity and finishes broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
The 2011 Viognier, Lake County, $18, 13,5% alc., 300 cases, was fermented in stainless steel and then spent three months in neutral French oak before bottling. A nose of chalk, floral, baked apple, and sweet pink grapefruit introduces mouth filling, almost creamy flavors of baked apple, sweet grapefruit, and Asian pear before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well put together. Tasty.
Steele has just released two vineyard designated Pinots Noir. While both are from Santa Barbara vineyards, each is distinctive. The 2010 Pinot Noir, Goodchild Vineyard, Santa Barbara, $28, 13.5% alc., 500 cases, was aged in French oak for twelve months has light intensity but nicely rich aromas of cherry, earth, and black raspberry. Smooth, round, juicy flavors of the same plus spice, licorice, and a hint of cedar finish broad and medium-long. The wine has good acidity and fine tannin and will complement food. Well integrated, balanced, and structured. Good.
In contrast, the 2010 Pinot Noir, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Block N, Santa Barbara, $32, 13.5% alc., 500 cases, also spent twelve months in French oak. A hint of sweetness accents the cherry, blackberry, cocoa, vanilla, and smoke on the nose. Mouth filling, juicy flavors of the same have good body, nice acidity, and fine tannin and finish medium-broad, and medium-long. A good pairing with lighter foods. Well put together. Tasty.
The 2009 Zinfandel, Pacini Vineyard, Mendocino County, $18, 13.5% alc., was matured for twelve months in American oak, 25% new. It opens with dark chocolate enrobed cherry, blackberry, currant, and plum with added notes of bramble and earth. Round, medium bodied flavors of the same with the chocolate at the end and hints of licorice carry through the medium-broad, medium-long finish. A lighter style Zin’ with good presence and intensity, it is well structured, balanced, and integrated and will pair nicely with food.
Steele-Stymie (by Steele Wines)
The 2009 Merlot, Founder’s Reserve, Lake County, $45, % alc., aged for thirty months in French and American oak. It has a ripe, smooth nose of chocolate syrup, plum, blackberry, cherry, and mocha before flavors of the same plus touches of pepper and tobacco laced with gripy tannin and moderate acidity before a long, medium-broad finish. Drink it now with fatty meats where the tannin will cut the fat or give it another few years in the bottle to moderate the tannin.
The 2009 Syrah, Founder’s Reserve, Lake County, $36, 13.5% alc., 400 cases, spent twenty-two months in barrel and has attractive aromas of cherry, raspberry, sweet earth, vanilla, and smoky oak. The palate adds blueberry, hints of cinnamon and nutmeg, fine tannin, and nice acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will complement food. Good.
Shooting Star (by Steele Wines)
The 2011 Aligoté, Washington State, $14, 13.2% alc., was barrel fermented in older oak and opens with oak, grapefruit peel, lemon, and mineral aromas before smooth, round flavors of the same accented with a touch of spritz. It finishes medium-broad and somewhat truncated. A straight forward wine especially for an afternoon on the deck or to use for the traditional Kir. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.
The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Lake County, $13, % alc., was co-fermented with 10% Semillon in stainless steel. An herbal nose with notes of tropical fruit, grapefruit, and spicy apple introduces flavors of lemon, grapefruit, green apple, mint, herb, and passion fruit that finish long, broad, and persistent. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.
CENTRAL COAST
Lucas & Lewellen
The 2007 Cabernet Franc, Estate, Valley View Vineyard, Santa Barbara County, $28, 14.5% alc., 136 cases, spent twenty-four months in French oak and has a very light nose of raspberry, cherry, and a hint of spice. Somewhat tart flavors of cherry, raspberry, and red currant are accented with fine tannin and finish broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. www.llwine.com
Vina Robles
The 2011 White4, Paso Robles, $16, 14.1% alc., is a blend of 53% Viognier, 18% Vermentino, 17% Verdelho, and 12% Sauvignon Blanc. It was aged in stainless steel tanks and neutral French oak and has a restrained nose of nougat, melon, and wildflower honey before flavors of apple, lemon at the top, mango, and a floral note. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together.
The 2011 Red4, Paso Robles, $17, 14.1% alc., is 61% Syrah, 25% Petite Sirah, and 7% each of Grenache and Mourvèdre. Matured for eighteen months in French oak, 30% new, has a rich nose of blackberry, cherry, plum, vanilla, chocolate, tobacco, and a touch of smoky oak. Flavors of the same plus a touch of spice are ripe but not sweet and are laced with nice acidity and fine tanning. Everything carries through the medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty.
Edna Valley Vineyard
Fifteen percent of the 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Central Coast, $15, 13.9% alc., was fermented and aged sur lie in French oak for four months; the balance was made and aged in stainless steel. Restrained aromas of grass, chalk, forsythia, and grapefruit introduce round, smooth flavors of the same plus touches of orange and lime that finish medium-broad and somewhat truncated. Well put together. www.ednavalleyvineyards.com
Clayhouse Vineyard
The 2011 Adobe Pink, Central Coast, $14, 13.5% alc., is orange-pink in color and opens with floral, raspberry, and strawberry aromas. Light bodied flavors of lemon peel, raspberry had candy, and strawberry finish medium-broad and truncated. Well balanced, integrated, and structured. www.clayhousewines.com
Other California
Plungerhead
The 2011Zinfandel, Lodi, $16, 14.5% alc., contains 80% Zinfandel, 5% each of Petite Sirah, Primitivo and Syrah. Light aromas of ripe dark cherry, blackberry, raspberry, bacon, and leather introduce bright, fairly light bodied flavors of the same plus pepper, blueberry, light tannin, and moderate acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish flows swiftly to the back of the palate where a touch of alcohol appears. Well put together and fairly simple
The 2011 Zinfandel, Old Vine, Dry Creek Valley, $18, 14.5% alc., is 86% Zinfandel, 8% Syrah, and 6% Tannat, and has very light cherry, blackberry, and smoke with hints of white pepper and cinnamon. Flavors of the same plus vanilla and black tea are medium bodied and accented with a hint of sweetness, good acidity and tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.
Pennywise
The 2011 Chardonnay, California, $12, 13.4% alc., has bright aromas of lemon, apple, pineapple, and papaya before juicy, bright flavors of the same with good acidity before a long, medium-broad finish. Simple, well balanced, structured, and integrated. A nice choice for an everyday Chard’.
The 2011 Petite Sirah, California, $12, 13.5% alc., contains 8% Merlot and 6% Tannat. A light nose of blackberry, black cherry, and black raspberry plus hints of cinnamon, toast, and cedar, introduces light bodied flavors of the same plus oregano and smoky oak laced with moderate acidity and light tannin. It finishes medium-broad and somewhat truncated. A well put together, straight forward red for everyday drinking.
White Knight
The 2011 Riesling, Lake County, $13, 13.3% alc., has aromas of wild flower honey, overripe pineapple, jasmine, and pear before round, soft spice flavors of the same which are just off dry. The finish is medium-broad and truncated.
The 2011 Viognier, Clarksburg, $13, contains 6% Chardonnay and 4% Muscat Alexandria. It was mostly tank fermented with a small portion in French oak. Soft floral, herb, and grapefruit aromas lead to round, smooth, flavors of lemon, lime, and pink grapefruit that finish long and medium-broad. Well put together.
The 2011 Moscato, California, $13, 13.3% alc., opens with wildflower honey, overripe pineapple, Asian pear, and jasmine before round, soft, spicy flavors of the same plus some ginger and lemon. The finish is medium-broad and truncated. The acidity keeps the wine from tasting sweet.
Pepi
The 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, [Clarksburg and Lake County] California, $10, 12% alc., has restrained aromas of herb, apple, white peach, lemon-lime, and lemon peel. Juicy flavors of the same are dominated by the lemon-lime and finish long and broad. Well put together. Tasty.
A “significant portion” of the 2011 Chardonnay, [Arroyo Seco and Delta] California, $10, 13.4% alc., completed malolactic fermentation and was aged sur lie in French and American oak for five months. Aromas of green apple, lemon, pear, and light toast lead to soft flavors of the same with initial sweetness that fades and leave leaves the flavors medium bright. The broad, medium-long finish adds spice at the sides. A straight forward, well put together Chard’ for everyday drinking. BEST BUY.
The 2011 Chenin Blanc-Viognier, [Clarksburg and Central Valley] California, $10, 12.4% alc., was made entirely in stainless steel. Very light aromas of pear and apple precedes round, smoothly textured flavors of pomelo, pineapple, apple, and lime that finish long and broad at the back. Well put together. Tasty.
Bogle Vineyard
The 2011 Chardonnay, California, $11, 13.5% alc., has aromas of oak, pear, apple, and lemon peel. Creamy textured flavors of the same with nice acidity finish long and medium-broad. It has more apparent oak than previous releases and is well balanced, structured, and integrated. BEST BUY.
The 2010 Merlot, California, $10, 13.5% alc., has a dark, ripe nose of blackberry, cherry, plum, vanilla, caramel, and smoky oak. Juicy flavors of the same fruit plus licorice, and smoky oak are laced with fine tannin and moderate acidity and finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, integrated, and structured. Tasty.
The 2009 Essential Red, California, $11, 13.5% alc., is a blend of Old Vine Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petite Sirah. Aged for eighteen months in American and French oak, has restrained aromas of blackberry, cherry, currant, leather, and smoke. All repeat as flavors laced with good acidity and nice, light, smooth tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well structured, integrated, and balanced. Very Tasty. www.boglewinery.com
Leese-Fitch
The 2011 Chardonnay, [69% Lodi, 19% Clarksburg, 12% California], California, $12, 13.8% alc., has aromas of toast, baked apple, lemon peel, and a hint of rose talc. Mouth filling, juicy flavors of apple, pomelo, lemon peel, sweet pineapple, and a hint of coriander finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together.
The 2011 Pinot Noir, California, $13, 13.5% alc., blended fruit from seven different areas from Santa Barbara in the south to Mendocino in the north and the Sierra Foothills in the east. It contains 76% Pinot Noir, 13% Syrah, 6% Grenache, and 5% Barbera. Aromas of cherry and blackberry with hints of earth and milk chocolate repeat as quite ripe but not sweet flavors laced with moderate acidity and light tannin before a long finish that broadens at the back. The wine is straight forward and well put together but without richness. A nice choice to accompany a simple lunch.
Pepperwood Grove
The nv Merlot, California, $7, 13.5% alc., show some vanilla from French oak and has a lush, sweet accented nose of cherry, blackberry, raspberry, and plum. The same repeat as ripe but not sweet flavors with the additions of smoke, fine tannin, and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, truncated finish. A well put together Merlot for everyday drinking with pizza and ‘burgers. www.donandsons.com
Apothic
The 2011 White, California, $14, 12.6% alc., is a blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, and Moscato. A portion completed malolactic fermentation and it has aromas of creamy apple, papaya, pear, and Rangpoor lime that introduce round, sweet accented flavors of papaya, pineapple, apple, and pear with soft acidity before a broad, medium-long finish. It will be popular. www.apothic.com
Mirassou Winery
The 2010 Merlot, California, $12, 13.06% alc., has aromas of blueberry, boysenberry, black raspberry, cherry, and hints of cocoa and anise. Flavors of the same plus smoky oak are shot through with tooth coating tannin and moderate acidity and finish medium-broad and medium-long. A big bodied Merlot with good presence, it will be popular. Well put together. Very Tasty. BEST BUY. www.mirassou.com
Gnarly Head
Like most Pinto Grigio, the normal”>BEST BUY.
The 2010 Zinfandel, Old Vine, Lodi, $12, 14.5% alc., has round aromas of black raspberry, cherry, strawberry, and touches of blueberry and smoke. Flavors of the same are mouth filling and have nice presence, good, moderate acidity, and fine tannin. It finishes medium-broad, and medium-long. Medium bodied and with nice freshness, it is well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty. www.gnarlyhead.com
Moobuzz
The 2011 Pinot Noir, [86% Monterey, 10% Mendocino, 4% Lodi], California, $15, 13.5% alc., is a blend of 86% Pinot Noir, 10% Sangiovese, 3% Tempranillo, and 1% Syrah. Light aromas of barnyard and cherry introduce cherry dominated flavors with nice acidity and very light tannin. The finish is long and broad at the back. Very simple. www.togwines.com
Pennywise
The 2011 Pinot Noir, California, $12, 13.5% alc., sourced its fruit from six different areas mostly from Clarksburg south and the final blend is 90% Pinot Noir, 6% Barbera, and 4% Sangiovese. It has a light nose of dark cherry with a hint of plum that continues as light bodied flavors with the additions of some blackberry, moderate acidity and very light tannin. It finishes long and medium-broad with the addition of some smoke. Simple. www.togwines.com
FRANCE
Château Puy-Blanquet, St. Émilion, Grand Cru
The 2009, $26, 13.5% alc., has a very restrained tobacco, cigar box, currant, dark cherry, and dust nose before, round, flavors of the same plus oak and fine tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together, it needs time to open.
Château Bonnet, Entre-Deux-Mer
The 2011, $13, 12% alc., is a blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon, and 10% Muscadelle. Aromas of grass, lees, and a hint of floral introduce smooth, soft flavors of apple, peach, and grass accented with a hint of sweetness that finish medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together.
Dourthe
The 2011 La Grande Cuvée, Bordeaux, $15, 12% alc., is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. A nose of herb, grass, and floral introduces flavors of the same plus green apple, and Meyer lemon that finish long and broader at the back. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.
Barton & Guestier
The 2010 Sauternes, $25, 13.5% alc., is 80 % Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas of earth, orange peel, cooked fruit, and honey introduce sweet, thick flavors of the same before a somewhat short, truncated finish. (A note: Most Sauternes are made to improve with aging. However, B&G has chosen to finish this one with a technical cork (one made from pieces of cork that have been bonded together) that cork makers do not recommend for a wine that will be kept for more than a few years.)
SPAIN
Albariño is Spain’s counterpart to France’s Muscadet—a great wine to accompany seafood. In Portugal the same grape is Alvarinho and, in addition to seafood, the Portuguese serve it with suckling pig.
Zios
The 2011 Albariño, Rías Biaxas D.O., $14, 13%, has aromas of lemon peel and mineral that repeat as round, almost soft, flavors with the addition of spice and moderate acidity. The long, medium-broad finish shows persistent spice especially at the sides. Straight forward and well put together.
Martin Códax
The 2011 Albariño, Rías Biaxas D.O., $15, 12.5% alc., has flavors of lemon, green apple, mineral, and a touch of salt. The medium-broad, medium-long finish adds an interesting hint of mint. Well put together.
Serra
The 2011 Albariño, Rías Biaxas D.O., $18, opens with woody herb, lime, and lime peel before flavors of the same laced with moderate acidity before a long, broad finish. Well put together.
Mar de Frades
The 2011 Albariño, Val do Salnes, Rías Biaxas D.O., $25, 12.5% alc., has light, soft aromas before juicy, mouth filling flavors of lemon, lime peel, and mineral that finish long and medium-broad. Well put together. Tasty.
VAZA
2009 Crianza, Rioja D.O., $15, 13.8% alc., is a “modern” Crianza that was aged in American and French oak for twelve months. Sweet baked cherry and blackberry on the nose introduces fairly bright, light bodied flavors of cherry, currant, blackberry, and vanilla oak laced with fine tannin and nice acidity. The long finish broadens at the back. Well balanced, structured, and integrated.
Martin Códax
A portion of the 2010 Ergo Tempranillo, Rioja D.O., $14, 13.5% alc., was aged for one year in used American oak and the final blend contains 15% Garnacha. It has attractive aromas of earth, cherry, spice, and smoke that repeat as flavors laced with good acidity and fine tannin before a long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Straight forward and a good choice for any everyday Tempranillo.
ITALY
Ecco Domani
The BEST BUY.
ARGENTINA
Don Miguel Gascón
The 2011 Malbec, Luján de Cuyo and Uco Valley, $15, 13.9% alc., juicy flavors of rhubarb, cranberry, raspberry, strawberry, and Montmorency cherry are accented with light tannin and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Straight forward.
Alamos
The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, $13, 13.9% alc., spent six to nine months in older French and American oak. It has fresh, forward aromas of blackberry, dark cherry, raspberry, and smoky oak. Juicy, forward flavors of the same add a touch of pepper, firm oak, and fine tannin. The medium-long finish broadens at the back and shows persistent smoke. The fruit is sweet and the wine is well put together.
The 2010 Malbec, Selección, Mendoza, $20, 13.8% alc., was aged for nine to twelve months in a combination of French and American oak and has a nose of barnyard and smoky oak before flavors of the same plus cherry, raspberry, and unripe strawberry laced with light tannin and moderate acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long.
AUSTRALIA
Yangarra Estate Vineyard
The 2008 Shiraz, McLaren Vale, $25, 14.5% alc., spent eighteen months in French oak, 30% new. Aromas of earth, baked blackberry, rose, licorice, and smoke repeat as big, mouth filling flavors with the addition of blueberry and shot through with fine tannin and good acidity. It finishes long and medium-broad. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty.
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Sonoma Notes October 2012
Sonoma County
Napa Valley has the cachet which it has gained since Robert Mondavi began promoting it as the acme of California wine producing areas. While it certainly produces many fine wines and has become a prime destination for travelers, a trip west over the Mayacamas to Sonoma County will reward anyone with interest in excellent wines. In addition, Sonoma continues to develop beyond wine with an ever increasing number of excellent restaurants scattered from the town of Sonoma at the south of the county to Geyserville at the north end.
Sonoma is about fifteen years behind Napa in its wine promotion activities. This is not a reflection on the quality of its wines but rather on the facts that while vineyards are gradually displacing other agricultural uses, it is not yet the monoculture that has evolved in Napa. It also means that the cost of visiting Sonoma is significantly less than a trip to Napa. But perhaps most important, Sonoma is more relaxed and the visitor has a better opportunity to meet the winemakers at its numerous small vintners many of whom also make wines from lesser known varieties or grapes not grown elsewhere in California.
As elsewhere, whether it be California, Colorado, Michigan or …, the number of wineries in Sonoma County is ever increasing and there are now over 400 wineries or individual labels. What follows are notes on some of Sonoma’s producers: small, medium, and large. These notes are by no means all inclusive because like most other California viticulture areas, the number of wineries located in Sonoma County continues to increase. This means that the visitor can stay in any area within the county and find a wide variety of vintners making desirable, and sometimes unusual, wines.
As always, and especially with the smaller producers, it may be necessary to schedule a visit. Check the website of any producer in which you may have a special interest or a new and especially valuable resource for in depth information on many California Wineries: www.AmericanWineryGuide.com. Also, if you can’t locate a wine at your local purveyor, contact the winery, it will ship to you. For your convenience, contact information (website, email or telephone number) is noted with the reviews and all wineries will ship to you. This is an advantage with both small producers and even with larger ones that limited releases and distribution of some of their wines. Also, the notes that follow attempt to group the wineries by location so that if you choose to visit you can stop at several in a single stop or without needing to cover any great distance between stops. Of course, that is not always possible but then, it is possible to choose a limited area such as Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley or Sonoma Valley and just wander stopping when and where the mood strikes.
The following notes include contact information for the wineries and give the production, when known, of the wines when the amount made was fewer than 1000 cases.
SONOMA COUNTY – SOUTHEAST OF HEALDSBURG
Limerick Lane just southeast of Healdsburg is the location of several small vintners. Some barely have tasting rooms. Indeed, at some there might be little more than a board across a few barrels, but all are worth a visit. Just remember to check their websites or call before stopping.
Viszlay Vineyards
John Viszlay left a corporate job in Chicago to found his small, eponymous winery in the Russian River Valley. Its first releases were in 2010 and all of its wines are made with grapes from its estate vineyards.
Utilizing the ten different varietals planted in its vineyards, it produces about 2000 cases annually. With the exception of its Reserve Chardonnay, the winery uses mostly neutral oak for aging with the goal of preserving the natural flavors of its fruit. You probably will not find Viszlay wines at your local shop but they are worth seeking. The winery will ship: www.viszlayvineyards.com.
The 2010 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, $30, 13.6% alc., 700 cases, was aged in equal amounts of stainless steel and neutral oak. Soft, ripe aromas of lemon and sweet apple introduce almost lush flavors of the same before the medium-broad; medium-long finish adds persistent spice. Round, well balanced, structured, and integrated and with good acidity. Very Tasty.
In contrast, the 2010 Chardonnay, Reserve, Mount Eden, Russian River Valley, $35, 13.6% alc., 50 cases, spent eighteen months in new French oak and opens with oak, lemon, and apple aromas. Very smooth flavors of the same but with the oak last finish medium-broad with a blob of oak at the back. Well put together.
The 2010 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, $45, 14.6% alc., 100 cases, was aged in Hungarian oak for sixteen months. A big, rich fruit nose of cherry, earth, blackberry, and currant introduces sweet accented flavors of the same with a big stripe of spice down the center, a note of smoky oak, good acidity, and fine tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well integrated, structured, and balanced. Very Tasty.
The 2008 Five Vines, Russian River Valley, $35, 13.9% alc., is a blend of 42% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Malbec, and 8% each of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. A very ripe, rich bouquet of chocolate, vanilla, caramel, blackberry, black cherry, blueberry, and currant repeats as flavors that are ripe but not sweet with the fruit first and laced with good acidity and fine tannin. The finish is medium-broad and truncated. Well put together. Tasty.
The 2009 Petite Sirah, Russian River Valley, $37, 13.9% alc., 100 cases, spent thirty months in mostly neutral French and Hungarian oak. Ripe blackberry, black cherry, and black cherry plus touches of vanilla and smoky oak introduce very juicy and bright fruit flavors that are more red than black and are accented with light, very fine tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Elegant rather than big or bold, it is well integrated, balanced, and structured. Very Good.